Only Watch 2017: Louis Moinet Metropolis

By Jovan Krstevski

Altruism is at the heart of every success, so when it comes to charity auctions, there will always be successful participants who share the same cause. The second half of the Only Watch 2017 is about to open huge opportunities for people to participate in the funding of the research for the Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy. The donors come from the biggest names in the watch industry, the ultimate smorgasbord of unique and highly exclusive mechanical watches. As for this write-up, let us take a close look at what Louis Moinet has to offer for the first time which is no other than the “Metropolis for Only Watch.” The “Metropolis for Only Watch” is a dedicated watch just for the auction. It tries to offer hope and Jean-Marie Schaller, Ateliers Louis Moinet’s CEO and Creative Director puts it so well in his statement, “We thought long and hard about how best to reach for the Moon and help children suffering from myopathy.”

Reach for the moon – this is literally the theme of the “Metropolis for Only Watch.” By looks alone, one can see its exclusive details such as the inclusion of lunar fragments. The 43.2 mm by 14.80 mm 316L stainless steel case looks somewhere between a dressy watch and a large watch but technically, this is perfect for those looking for a medium size watch. The case design is a bit industrial but knowing that it is made of steel, the sporty feel is very much credible. The bezel follows the brand’s style and appears to be fixed with 6 screws to the case. The finishing is superb alternating between polished and brushed as seen on the screwed bezel. The lugs are wide and thick adding more boldness to an already beefy watch. The crown appears to be larger than a usual Monet watch too but for the Metropolis, it suits it perfectly.

On the watchface, the gold-plated dial looks nice and luxurious and rightfully so. Ateliers Louis Moinet has once again created a one-of-a-kind miniature painting in a watchface utilizing precise watchmaking techniques with rare materials – genuine fragments of lunar meteorites. The decoration on the Metropolis is a first in terms of technique used since it is first gilded then hand-punched to form the lunar craters which are then filled with authentic lunar meteorite fragments. The legibility of the watch is superb and the brilliant open worked feature at 9 o’clock is simply fascinating to examine. The hands in blued steel are splendid sporting Louis Moinet’s signature “dewdrop” tips as they trace a circle around a powder-coated black flange where the Arabic Numerals for the hours are highly readable.

Powering the Metropolis for Only Watch is an in-house movement, LM31 caliber. As seen through the dial’s open work design above the visible escapement, a small seconds hand glides over a sapphire crystal counter, slightly smoked to aid its legibility but still allowing views to the beautiful movement. The movement is also visible under the sapphire crystal caseback where the words “Pièce Unique – Only Watch” are engraved. The watch is wound by an oscillating weight decorated with a concentric Clou de Paris pattern and a fragment of lunar meteorite, an exclusive for the Ateliers.

The Metropolis for Only Watch wears on a hand-sewn Louisiana alligator leather strap featuring a folding clasp with “Fleur-de-lys” motif. It is expected to net 18,000 – 28,000 $.