BY JOVAN K
Bianchet is going all-in on ceramic with the latest version of its UltraFino Tonneau, and honestly, this is probably one of the better-looking takes on the model so far. The young independent Swiss brand has already played around with titanium, sapphire and carbon, but this time the whole thing gets the ceramic treatment.
The new UltraFino Tonneau Ceramic Skeleton comes in two versions, Deep Blue and White, with the integrated bracelet made from matching high-tech ceramic. Underneath all that is the same seriously thin automatic flying tourbillon that makes the UltraFino interesting in the first place.
The ceramic case measures 40mm x 8.9mm, and 47.5mm from lug-to-lug, with the Deep Blue version getting black contrasting gaskets, while the White version uses dark blue accents.
Bianchet has also kept the combination of satin-brushed surfaces and polished bevels, which gives the otherwise pretty wild case some much-needed definition.
Ceramic can sometimes make a watch look a little too clinical, but the different finishes help here. The polished edges catch the light while the brushed surfaces keep things from turning into one big shiny blob.There’s sapphire crystal on both sides and 50 meters of water resistance.
The UltraFino Tonneau is fully openworked, so you’re basically looking straight into the movement from the front. Applied markers and hands with luminous material give you the actual time display, but the flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock is obviously going to steal most of the attention.
The UT01 movement is only 3.85mm thick and weighs around 8 grams. It uses a titanium construction and features a suspended mainspring barrel, while the one-minute flying tourbillon, and runs at 21,600 vibrations per hour and gives you 60 hours of power reserve. The gold central rotor is shaped around Bianchet’s obsession with the Golden Ratio, while the movement is visible from both sides of the watch.
The Deep Blue comes with a black PVD-treated movement, giving the whole watch a darker, more aggressive look. The White version goes in the opposite direction with a cobalt blue PVD treatment, creating a much stronger contrast against the white ceramic case.
And despite being ridiculously thin and light, Bianchet says the movement can handle shocks of up to 5,000 G. That’s a pretty serious number for something this delicate-looking.
The integrated bracelet is made from the same high-tech ceramic as the case and uses a mix of brushed and polished surfaces. It also has a quick-release system, which is a nice touch because Bianchet includes an additional rubber strap with each watch. The Deep Blue comes with a black rubber strap, while the White version gets cobalt blue.
The UltraFino Tonneau Ceramic Skeleton watches are priced at CHF 72,500 before taxes. Both versions are part of the permanent collection rather than limited editions, which is interesting considering their niche watches. Personally, I’d probably go for the white one. The blue movement against the white ceramic is hard to ignore, and that’s kind of the point with a Bianchet.
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