BY HARLAN CHAPMAN-GREEN
Breguet has given its Marine collection a shake-up, and right out of the gate I can tell you that I think these new versions look much better than the outgoing pieces. Breguet’s Marine watches are quite unique in the historic maison’s lineup; the brand has exceptional heritage in general, and some of that is related to marine chronometers, which were essential navigation tools in the past. A marine chronometer had to keep the most accurate time possible in the most demanding conditions possible, so that navigators could work out their headings with accuracy that ensured a vessel’s safety. Of course, things like global positioning systems (GPS) and automatic identification systems (AIS) are much more accurate, so the meaning of ‘marine’ takes on a different form for Breguet today. The brand doesn’t have a watch for scuba diving; its Swatch-owned sister brand Blancpain has that covered with its litany of Fifty Fathoms watches available. But if you want something that can survive contact with water with no fuss, interpreted in Breguet’s language, the Marine is for you.
The three-handed watches are still very much the same modern, sporty Breguet pieces, but the return of elegant guilloché dials changes the range’s character and brings it closer to the Marine watches of the nineties and noughties. Those watches were, and still are, very popular with fans and collectors. They offered real horology with dependable practicality that might not sound important, and it probably isn’t to collectors who can afford a ten-piece watch collection, but if you’re someone who expects your luxury watch to do the daily routine, then it’s extremely relevant.
The old-old Marines did that and had elegant Breguet looks, but their replacements were flat and, frankly, uninteresting. Breguet was aware of the market’s tepid response to its pieces for at least some time, although it’s puzzling that it’s taken so long to do anything about it. However, the new “Quai de l’Horloge” pattern engraved into the dials of the new watches brings in a much more traditional Breguet element without turning the Marine into something overly fussy. Their sizing is good, too, with the three-handed ref 5517 models measuring 40mm x 11.5mm and the chronographe ref 5527 models measuring 42.3mm x 13.9mm, and they both have 100m of water resistance. The sizing is more or less the same, and indeed the cases look virtually identical to the outgoing models, with fixed lugs extending away from the case edge and classy fluting on the caseband. The three-link bracelets seem virtually the same, too, although if you opt for a rubber strap, you get one with a classy texture that matches the “Quai de l’Horloge” guilloché on the dial.
The dials are very classy and follow the style of Breguet’s other watches unveiled last year. I particularly love the cursive ‘Breguet’ logo that’s been applied to the dial. I do lament the fact that they brought the older style back but left out the ‘big date’ which used two separate wheels rather than one, but I can live with it – the Breguet numerals and Breguet hands with lume look exceptional. There are only a few dial colours for now, although more will undoubtedly be released in the future.
For the ref 5517, the black dial is currently available only with the 18k rose gold case, and the light blue dial is matched to an 18k white gold case. The dark blue gradient dial with contrasting gold hands and markers is set in a titanium case.
For the 5527 chronographe models, you have a choice of a rich blue gradient dial paired with an 18k rose gold case, a lighter blue gradient dial with an 18k white gold case, or a grey gradient dial that’s matched to a titanium case. To make these colours work on engraved metal, Breguet has redeveloped its dials and now cuts the guilloché pattern before applying a semi-transparent coloured lacquer, giving them a classy new look and a range of colour possibilities.
Inside these new watches sit the same calibres from the previous generation of Marine watches. That means the ref 5517 gets the self-winding calibre 777A, which is made from 235 components and 26 jewels and comes with a 4Hz beat rate and a 55-hour power reserve. The ref 5527 watches get the calibre 582QA, which is a self-winding flyback chronograph movement.
It’s been modified slightly from the outgoing model to have just two subdials on the front, doing away with the outgoing model’s awkward layout of three subdials in three different sizes. It comes with a 4Hz beat rate and a 48-hour power reserve and is made from 346 components and 28 jewels. The finishing on these movements is a classy straight striping, although I’d like to get a look at it under my macro lens for a proper comment. I do wish they’d also brought back the swirly guilloché self-winding rotors seen on the old-old Marine models; I wasn’t such a fan of these ones, which are styled to look like the wheel used to steer ships.
Breguet Marine 5517
Titanium on bracelet (ref.5517TI/Y9/TZ0): $30,000
Titanium on strap (ref.5517TI/Y9/5ZU): $26,400
18k White gold on bracelet (ref.5517BB/YA/BZ0): $80,300
18k White gold on strap (ref.5517BB/YA/5ZU): $48,900
18k Rose gold on bracelet (ref.5517BR/99/RZ0): $80,300
18k Rose gold on strap (ref.5517BR/99/5ZU): $48,900
Breguet Marine Chronographe 5527
Titanium on bracelet (ref. 5527TI/GA/TW0): $36,600
Titanium on strap (ref. 5527TI/GA/5WV): $33,000
18k White gold on bracelet (ref.5527BB/YA/BW0): $93,000
18k White gold on strap (ref.5527BB/YA/5WV): $59,400
18k Rose gold on bracelet (ref.5527BR/Y9/RW0): $80,300
18k Rose gold on strap (ref.5527BR/Y9/5WV): $48,900
Overall, these new Marine models are a remarkable improvement in my opinion, and they signal that the brand is headed in the right direction after a few years of seeming, well, tired. Breguet is still my favourite watch brand, and to see it receiving a new lease of life warms my heart, although there are still a few quirks holding the Marine back from receiving perfect marks from me. It’s a leap in the right direction, though.
Explore more at Breguet
