BY HARLAN CHAPMAN-GREEN
When Ferdinand Berthoud was revived in 2015, we wondered how it would be received by the watch world, being an unknown company selling hyper-expensive watches in octagonal cases. Chopard co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele was the man behind the revival, but a whole team of experts dedicated to the craft brought Ferdinand Berthoud’s watches to life. It’s fair to say that the reaction has been extremely positive, with the brand introducing exquisite new models regularly and consistently being a popular destination at Watches & Wonders Geneva. Ferdinand Berthoud watches can be surprisingly complex, but today we’re looking more closely at one of their newer “simpler” models: the FB 3SPC.2-1.
Ferdinand Berthoud’s watches tend to exude an elegance that’s hard to match; some of it is from the styling, while a lot of the rest is from the technical abilities of the craftspeople making every watch. That know-how is often inspired by chronometers and clocks from the past, which leads not only to some intriguing designs but also to, well, quite large watches except on this occasion. The new FB 3SPC.2-1 measures 42.3mm x 9.43mm which, while quite large in diameter for a dress watch, is still reasonably sized. The 18k ethically sourced rose gold case is made from 57 components, including a viewing port to the movement on its side, but still has 30m of water resistance, meaning splashes and rain exposure will be no problem. For the avoidance of doubt, it’s better not to submerge it. The blue alligator leather strap will also likely be affected if it is submerged.
The dial of the FB 3SPC.2-1 is openworked, allowing us to marvel at the hand-made, hand-finished calibre powering the piece. The macro photos really let us revel in the exquisite details of this watch, and I know I’m gushing a bit, but Ferdinand Berthoud watches are worth it. At 9 O’clock on the dial is the watch’s escapement, which features a hand-shaped cylindrical balance spring and a variable-inertia balance wheel. Unlike most watches of this calibre (pardon the pun), the FB 3SPC.2-1 is COSC chronometer-certified and will run for 72 hours before needing winding, but the CVD blue power-reserve hand (which matches the other hands) will tell you when the watch needs winding again. Plenty of fine graining, polishing, bevelling and sandblasting make up the decoration of this movement, which is constructed from German silver and matches the colours on the dial side.
Ferdinand Berthoud’s new FB 3SPC.2-1 is both an art piece and a demonstration of what can be achieved when there are no production quotas to meet or budgets to follow. Naturally, that means it’s expensive, although the price is available only upon request. It’s a permanent part of Ferdinand Berthoud’s small lineup, though, so if you have the cash and can wait for them to make you one, you should be able to get one for many years.
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