BY JOVAN K
Bulgari and Vianney Halter is not exactly a collaboration I would have predicted, but that’s what makes the new Octo Finissimo Dual Time interesting. Bulgari has taken its familiar Octo Finissimo shape and handed it over to one of independent watchmaking’s more unusual characters. The result is still very recognisably an Octo, but there are enough Halter details here to make it feel like something completely different.
The case measures 40.5mm × 9.7mm, and the the watch is pretty damn slim considering everything going on inside. It’s made from titanium on the main version and keeps the sharp, architectural geometry that has become the signature of the Octo Finissimo. The case has a combination of brushed and polished surfaces, while the construction uses more than 50 individual components. Sapphire crystal is used front and back, although water resistance is only 30 meters. So this is definitely more about the design than taking it on some weekend diving trip.
The titanium version is limited to 30 pieces, while Bulgari is also making a much smaller 18k tose gold version limited to just 15 pieces. The gold model gets a slightly warmer and more traditional feel, but the basic case architecture remains the same. And that’s important because this is still very much an Octo Finissimo. Halter has added his fingerprints without completely taking over the design.
The dial is where things get properly interesting. Instead of one conventional dial, Bulgari divides the display into several separate sections. Hours and minutes occupy the main area, while the second time zone, date and day/night indication each have their own little space. It gives the watch a very technical, almost instrument-like appearance.
The blue hands add another bit of color, while the red seconds hand gives the otherwise fairly monochrome display some life.
There is a lot happening, but somehow it doesn’t become completely chaotic. You can see Halter’s influence in the way information is displayed, especially if you’re familiar with his more experimental watches.
The really interesting part is that this isn’t just a case and dial exercise. Bulgari developed the new BVF 200 automatic movement with input from Vianney Halter. The movement uses a platinum micro-rotor with the rose gold version it is finished in a rose gold color to complement the case, and measures only 5.49mm thick, helping Bulgari keep the overall watch under 10mm. The micro-rotor also carries Halter’s signature, which is a nice little detail and makes the collaboration feel more genuine.
It beats at 21,600 vibrations per hour and provides around 60 hours of power reserve. The movement is visible through the sapphire caseback and gets a combination of Côtes de Genève, brushing and perlage.
The titanium model comes on an integrated titanium bracelet, which is pretty much exactly what you would expect from an Octo Finissimo. The rose gold version takes a different route with a brown alligator strap and matching rose-gold buckle. Personally, I think the titanium bracelet suits the whole futuristic character of the watch better.
And then we get to the price. The titanium ref. 104356 version is €68,000 before taxes and is limited to 30 pieces. The 18k rose gold ref. 104355 version is €105,000 before taxes and limited to just 15 pieces.
Explore more at Bulgari
