BY JOVAN K
Girard-Perregaux continues to expand the Laureato Fifty with something considerably more serious than another three-hand variation. Introduced as part of the brand’s 235th anniversary celebrations, the new Laureato Fifty Tourbillon Micro-Rotor 39mm brings together several of Girard-Perregaux’s most recognizable signatures in one watch, including the octagonal Laureato bezel, Clous de Paris decoration, Grand Feu enamel, the historic arrow-shaped bridges and a tourbillon.
The Laureato Fifty Tourbillon uses the revised 39mm x 10mm stainless steel case introduced with the Fifty collection, which is particularly impressive considering there is a tourbillon and automatic winding system packed inside. An octagonal bezel sits on top of a circular plinth, while the tonneau-shaped middle case and integrated bracelet give it the familiar 1970s integrated sports watch profile. Brushed and polished surfaces create plenty of contrast, with the broader polished chamfers around the bezel adding more definition to the case. A sapphire crystal protects the front, while another sapphire panel in the four-screw caseback exposes the movement. Water resistance is rated at 50 meters.
Two dial executions are available, and both use a Clous de Paris pattern that continues the geometric language of the Laureato. The first combines the textured surface with a blue Grand Feu enamel treatment, produced in-house by Donzé Cadrans, while the second uses a solid 1k gold dial in a warm rose-gold tone. Both versions use applied white-gold baton indexes and matching white-gold hands with luminous inserts. There is no date window, leaving the dial relatively clean despite the tourbillon opening at 6 o’clock.
That tourbillon is held beneath one of Girard-Perregaux’s signature arrow-shaped white-gold bridges, while the cage itself has the brand’s distinctive lyre shape. It is a modern interpretation of the Three Bridges architecture that dates back to Constant Girard’s work in the 19th century.
The real story is Caliber GP8410, a completely new manufacture automatic movement developed for the Laureato Fifty Tourbillon. Measuring 30.4mm in diameter and only 6.1mm thick, it contains 207 components and 31 jewels. Operating at 21,600 vibrations per hour (3Hz), the movement provides a substantial 72-hour power reserve. Winding is handled by an off-center micro-rotor made primarily from platinum, with a pink-gold bridge shaped after Girard-Perregaux’s famous arrow motif.
Through the sapphire caseback, two large white-gold bridges are visible, decorated with the same Clous de Paris pattern used on the dial. This creates a nice visual connection between both sides of the watch rather than treating the movement as something completely separate from the design.
An integrated stainless steel H-link bracelet completes the watch, combining brushed and polished finishing with the revised proportions of the Laureato Fifty case. The bracelet is fitted with a folding clasp incorporating a 4mm adjustment system, making it possible to fine-tune the fit without adding links.
Both versions are part of the regular Laureato catalog rather than numbered limited editions, with production determined by manufacturing capacity. The blue Grand Feu enamel version, reference 99116-11-3528-1CM, is priced at $100,000, while the 18k gold dial version, reference 99116-11-3615-1CM, comes in at $95,600.
For Girard-Perregaux, this is a pretty complete expression of what the modern Laureato Fifty is supposed to represent. You get the integrated-bracelet sports watch proportions, but underneath is a genuinely high-end movement with a micro-rotor and tourbillon, while the dial and bridges bring in some of the manufacture’s oldest design signatures.
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