BY HARLAN CHAPMAN-GREEN
Whether you’re a little bit of a watch nerd on the quiet or a downright fanatic, you’ll have undoubtedly seen some all-ceramic watches, though there are fewer out there than you might think. You’ve got Panerai, which has done this sort of thing for a while, Bulgari, which gets more and more inventive by the minute. Rado is well-known for its use of ceramics too, and this year IWC launched a rather fetching version of its Ingenieur, of course there are more but these are some of the most notable ones. Then there’s the big daddy of these types of watches, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, which combines classic looks with a thoroughly modern material in watchmaking. Maurice Lacroix has recently joined the all-ceramic game with two versions of its classic Aikon line, and I’ve been trying out one of the new models over the past few weeks.
First off, I’ll say that there is a black ceramic Aikon on offer as well, with a 42mm case and a matching black ceramic bracelet for those who want it. That watch is rather fetching and probably more popular than the one I’ve got, but
I think that the white ceramic case and bracelet of this particular Aikon are more interesting to look at. White has a lot of history and representation, with white chalk being used by the first artists over 17,000 years ago, being seen by Ancient Greeks as a representation of nourishment, of purity by the Ancient Romans (and others), virtue, of death and mourning, cleanliness, purity, and modernism. The point is, when you see something that’s predominantly stark white, you automatically make assumptions about it. White things can often be seen as contemporary, just take Apple products from 15 years ago when they first launched, or the sweeping open rooms (corridors?) of Space Station V in 2001: A Space Odyssey (1968). You immediately get a sense of what it’s about when it’s stark white.
Contemporary is how I’d describe this Aikon, too, which has the reference AI6007-CRM72-130-7. At 39mm x 11mm, it’s very well proportioned and easily wearable by anyone, with 200m of water resistance ensuring it can be worn anywhere. Maurice Lacroix’s website shows it on the wrist of a person who presents as a woman, but I like it on my chunkier wrists too.
The ceramic bracelet has been finished well with no sharp edges left over, and the neither the case corners nor the crown dig in to my wrists.
Measuring in on WristReview’s VSS (Very Scientific [Kitchen] Scales) at 142 grams places the ceramic Aikon right next to the Rolex GMT-Master II on a Jubilee bracelet, and nearly 20 grams heavier than the Pontos S diver on a rubber strap, which I reviewed not too long ago. It’s solid, in a good way.
I have no reason to believe that it will shatter like glass when dropped, which seems to be a recurring comment whenever we talk about ceramic watches here. With that said, we have all seen photos and read horror stories of ceramic watches being cracked and damaged. I’d imagine the bill will be substantial for the Aikon as well.
I like the stainless steel butterfly clasp which blends seamlessly into the bracelet.
The white lacquered dial is clear and legible with an attractive Clous-de-Paris style pattern stamped into the centre portion.
Rhodium-plated hands and markers stand above the dial and reflect the light in all manner of ways, as you’ll see from my photos, but there’s also SuperLumiNova making it readable at night. The date window is fairly easy to read, too.
Behind the dial and visible through the sapphire caseback is the self-winding calibre ML 115, the same calibre as in the Pontos S diver. The movement has a power reserve of around 38 hours with a 4Hz beat rate, although it is not a certified chronometer.
It started out in life as a high-grade Sellita SW200-1, and unlike the Pontos S, it is visible through the sapphire crystal caseback. I like the open caseback on this watch, it classes the piece up a little further, even if it would’ve been nice to have that on the Pontos S.
When looking at the caseback you’ll also be able to spot the quick change system Maurice Lacroix has built into it. The easy change system allows you to do as the name suggests and easily change the bracelet on the watch for something else, like a strap. In this case, straps are optional extras. Maurice Lacroix makes a fair number of different strap options and any strap designed for watches with a reference number beginning with AI6007, as this watch’s reference does, will fit. The issue with this particular version of the Aikon is that the strap options on their website are clearly designed for stainless steel watches, given the steel buckles and steel end links, which is kind of funny in a way. You could do something really nuts, like put a stainless steel bracelet on your ceramic-cased watch if you wanted!
Maybe if you ask nicely, Maurice Lacroix will make you a set of ceramic end links to match the case. That brings me to something they couldn’t help me with: resizing the Aikon’s bracelet. To put it bluntly, if you’re ordering one of these online because you don’t have an authorised dealer nearby, make darned sure you give them your wrist size so they can adjust it at the factory. Each link is held together by a screw on either side, plus another in the back. Maurice Lacroix told me I’d need one of these tools to remove the links. I’m not about to risk scratching the links by trying it another way.
At least the bracelet was easy to remove from the case with the quick change system. So definitely tell them your wrist size, or find a local watchmaker willing to work on it; most authorised dealers these days won’t touch something from a brand they don’t sell, as I’ve found out.
I don’t think the apparent complexity of resizing the bracelet should put you off buying one of these. The Aikon is more than up to the task of daily life, and it’ll look good doing it too.
It also joins the growing club of all-ceramic watches, and with a retail price of CHF2,990.00 (incl. VAT), it’s very much at the affordable end of that club, even if it’s not the most affordable entry.
