BY HARLAN CHAPMAN-GREEN
It’s been a while since we’ve checked in with DOXA, but it’s always worth doing. The brand seems to be going from strength to strength and generating a whole load of interest along the way. Their latest release is the SUB 200 II, which features a simple, toned-down appearance compared to some of their other diving watches. Let’s take a look.
The SUB 200 II appears as a refined, slightly more elegant diving watch compared to DOXA’s iconic, historically inspired SUB 300. I mean, it certainly looks more refined to me, but its dimensions tell that it’s still a serious sports watch. The stainless steel case of the new SUB 200 II measures 44mm x 12.8mm, which, DOXA says, is one millimetre thinner than the SUB 200. Also, DOXA claims that the shorter distance between the lugs (which isn’t actually stated in the press kit) means the SUB 200 II wears more like a 42mm watch. That remains to be seen. The 200m of water resistance is solid.
The dial colours are classy, though. You have a choice between black, blue, red, green, grey dials, and for the first time, all dials are fumé gradient dials. The intense colour beginning at the dial centre and fading away towards the edges adds a certain charm which, I suspect, is better appreciated in person than in the press pictures. Super-LumiNova is applied to the hands and markers for night legibility, a necessity on a diving watch.
Choosing the red dial option rewards you with a black DLC case and stainless steel Milanese loop bracelet, which aren’t available with any of the other dial colours. The Milanese loop without black DLC is an option on the other watches, though flexible rubber straps with pin buckles are also available.
Inside all the new SUB 200 II watches is the Sellita SW200, a self-winding workhorse movement with a 38-hour power reserve. The point of watches like these isn’t the movement prowess, rather, it’s the ability to take the beatings of daily life and still provide accurate timing after the dust has settled. The price for one of these is $1690/€1590 on the rubber strap, and $1750/€1650 on the Milanese loop bracelet. One thing I don’t quite understand is why the Sub 200 II is on sale next to the Sub 200. Why not retire the old range if we’re onto the second generation now? I’m sure there’s an answer out there.
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