BY HARLAN CHAPMAN-GREEN
Glashütte Original’s Seventies models are unique in their lineup, with their square cases standing out as fun and vivid reminders of the period. I wasn’t around in the 1970s; my parents were, though, and they remember all the fun times very well. They also remember how simplistic and analogue things seemed back then, from using film in a camera to tuning the radio to a different station once the BBC stations stopped broadcasting for the evening because, yes, that was a thing too. Sure, transistors were the thing, and microchips were becoming mainstream in the 1970s, but it was still an analogue world. Today, Glashütte Original expands on that line of watches inspired by the era with three smaller and simpler watches; these new watches are called the 70s, rather than ‘Seventies’. The previous models appear to be hanging around, at least for now.
All the new watches share the same basic specifications. They all have a rounded-square stainless steel tv-shaped case measuring 39mm x 39mm x 9.6mm and 100m water resistance.
As you’ll undoubtedly know, the offerings in the Seventies lineup up to now are all chronograph watches, and while they are only 1mm larger in length and width, they all measure over 14mm in height. These simpler 70s watches lose that height and so appear much more wearable for most. They can also be worn on a metal bracelet or a colour-matched rubber strap with a calfskin lining. Glashütte Original’s patented Groove Lock, which debuts in this 70s collection, features a novel connector between the case and the bracelet and a specially designed clasp, neither of which require any tools to change.
All three watches also have a couple of common elements on their dials. The date window is one thing, Glashütte Original seems to have opted for a traditional date display rather than their ‘Panorama Date’ which combines two separate disks to make up the date display. As well as this, the dials all feature a “hexagrid” pattern which Glashütte Original says will create “vibrant light reflections and visual depth”.
The first version is called the “Vinyl Record” edition. Inspired by the black of most vinyl records, it has a classy black dial with solid white gold hands and markers.
The second version is the “Tweed Amp” edition, inspired by the tweed-coloured grilles often seen covering the fronts of all kinds of amplifiers from the era, from Fender to Vox, to Mesa/Boogie and beyond. This piece features a brown dial with solid red gold hands and markers.
The last piece has a silver dial with black-coated hands and markers, though they’re still solid gold. This model is called the “Stereo Panel” and is inspired by the cool silvery look of the best hi-fi systems from the period. I used to have my Dad’s 1970s Pioneer SA-6500 II amp in my room connected to my hi-fi speakers because I wanted to be cool and also deaf. The silver panel and solid switches and dials looked good, though.
Inside each watch sits a state-of-the-art self-winding movement developed by Glashütte Original. The “Vinyl Record” model gets the calibre 36-10, which has a cool-looking black rhodium plating treatment for a dark finish devoid of colour but not soul.
The other two watches get the calibre 36-11, which has a more traditional finish, featuring a silvery appearance with contrasting highlights and a coloured rim on the 21k gold winding rotor. Both calibres have a three-quarter plate covering most of the movement, as is traditional for the Glashütte region, and a swan-neck spring for adjustments. The specs include 27 jewels, a 4Hz beat rate, a 100-hour power reserve, and a silicon hairspring. This is all visible thanks to a sapphire crystal caseback.
References:
Ref. 1-36-10-04-02-86 – “Vinyl Record”
Ref. 1-36-11-03-02-66 – “Tweed Amp” on rubber strap
Ref. 1-36-11-03-02-71 – “Tweed Amp” on steel bracelet
Ref. 1-36-11-01-02-66 – “Stereo Panel” on rubber strap
Ref. 1-36-11-01-02-71 – “Stereo Panel” on steel bracelet
Glashütte Original clearly has plenty of ideas for its new 70s line and the potential to make them happen. These new pieces signal an exciting direction for the Saxon brand, and we look forward to seeing which 1970s influences inspire them next. The price for the “Vinyl Record” edition €16,100 and it is limited to 500 examples – it includes both the stainless steel bracelet and the rubber strap. The “Tweed Amp” and “Stereo Panel” watches are not limited in production, and can be purchased either with the rubber strap for a price of €13,000 or on the steel bracelet for €14,300.
