BY JOVAN K
Richard Mille has revived one of its most recognisable sporty silhouettes with the new Richard Mille RM 55-01, a modern evolution of the former RM 055 once linked to golfer Bubba Watson. This time, the watch stands on its own, stripped of ambassador branding and focused entirely on what Richard Mille does best: radical materials, skeletonized mechanics, and featherweight performance.
The RM 55-01 is offered in three distinct tripartite tonneau case executions: Black Carbon TPT, White Quartz TPT and Grey Quartz TPT, each with its own personality, ranging from stealthy and aggressive to futuristic, before settling into a more understated tone. The TPT (TPT stands for “Thin Ply Technology”) construction is made from ultra-thin (only 30 microns thick) layers of carbon or silica fibres, stacked with resin, compressed, then machined, creating a rigid, lightweight structure with unique flowing striations across every case.
The case measures 37.95mm x 10.75mm, with a lug-to-lug of 47.33mm. Richard Mille uses grade 5 titanium spline screws to secure the bezel/caseback to the caseband, satin brushed surfaces, polished bevels, and layered composite textures create a balance of raw technicality and refined finishing. The case is water resistant to 50m.
There is no conventional dial in the usual sense. Instead, the RM 55-01 uses its movement as the visual display, with a fully skeletonized architecture framed by a flange carrying the minute track. Openworked hands filled with lume hover above the calibre, while applied numerals and markers are positioned around the perimeter for maximum legibility. The layered case walls and curved sapphire crystal create impressive depth, allowing one to look through multiple levels of bridges, gears, and barrel components. It feels less like reading a dial and more like viewing a machine in motion.
The movement powering the RM 55-01 is the RMUL4 (“UL” is short for “Ultra Light”, weighing under 5 grams), developed with a focus on stiffness and minimal weight. The black PVD baseplate and bridges are crafted from grade 5 titanium and are treated with a grey electroplasma coating for added hardness and a dark industrial tone.
Hand-finished bevels, brushed surfaces, and polished sinks bring refinement to an otherwise brutalist layout. The movement features a free-sprung 4Hz balance, two series-linked barrels, 27 jewels, a power reserve of 55 hours, with function indicators for winding, neutral, and hand setting integrated into the display.
Each version is paired with a matching integrated fabric strap, secured by a titanium folding clasp. Price upon request.
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