BY JOVAN K
Rolex doesn’t exactly have a reputation for doing unexpected things. The brand has its formula, and it generally sticks to it. That’s why the new Perpetual Padellone is such an interesting release. Instead of another variation of a familiar sports watch, Rolex has gone back to one of its rarest vintage watches, the Ref. 8171, and used it as inspiration for a completely new annual calendar.
Rolex “Padellone” ref. 8171 in stainless steel & pink gold
The original Ref. 8171 was produced between 1949 and 1952 and became known as the “Padellone”, or “large frying pan”, because of its unusually large 38mm case for the time. It featured a complete calendar and moonphase, making it one of the more complicated watches Rolex produced during that period. The new model obviously isn’t a straight reissue, but you can immediately see the connection. Rolex has taken the idea and brought it into 2026 with a new movement, modern materials, and a 39mm case.
The Perpetual Padellone comes in either 18k Everose gold or 950 platinum and measures 39mm x 12.3mm. The case has a bezel with a smooth upper section and a finely fluted lower one and fairly traditional proportions, giving it a very different character from the sports watches that make up most of the Rolex conversation. It is also relatively restrained in its design, which is probably the right approach here since the dial is doing most of the talking.
The case doesn’t try to be overly complicated or modern. In fact, that’s one of the things I like about it. It has a proper old-school Rolex dress watch feel, but underneath it is a complicated piece of engineering.
The dial is obviously where things get interesting. At 12 o’clock you have two apertures showing the day and month, while a central blue hand with a crescent-shaped tip points to the date around the outside of the dial.
Then at 6 o’clock there is the moonphase display. So you’ve got the day, date, month and moonphase all sitting together, but Rolex has managed to keep the dial from looking like a wall of information.
The platinum version gets the most interesting detail with its meteorite moonphase disc, which features decorative human faces on the moon. It’s a small thing, but it gives the watch some personality and feels like a nice nod to the slightly eccentric nature of the original Padellone. This isn’t the kind of Rolex where you need to stare at it for five minutes to figure out what’s going on. The layout is actually quite simple once you understand what you’re looking at.
Inside is the new Rolex Calibre 7190, an automatic movement developed specifically for the Perpetual Padellone. It runs at 5Hz (36,000 vibrations per hour), features 35 jewels, and offers 66 hours of power reserve, but the big story here is the new annual calendar system called Haplos.
The mechanism can tell the difference between 30- and 31-day months, meaning the calendar only needs to be corrected once a year, when February ends.
Rolex has also designed the system so the day, date, and month change simultaneously at midnight in a fraction of a second. The movement is covered by 30 patent applications, with two specifically exclusive to this watch, and also uses Rolex’s Dynapulse escapement, Syloxi silicon hairspring, Paraflex shock absorbers and Microstella regulation.
The Everose gold Ref. M53505-0002 comes on a matte brown alligator strap and is priced at USD 59,000/CHF 52,500/EUR 58,300, while the same case with Rolex’s new Settimo bracelet, Ref. M53505-0003, costs USD 72,000/CHF 64,800/EUR 71,900.
The platinum Ref. M53506-0002 comes with a matte black alligator strap and is priced at USD 66,200/CHF 59,000/EUR 65,500. The alligator straps feature a green calfskin lining and Rolex’s Dualclasp folding clasp, while the Settimo bracelet (introduced at W&W 2025 for the 1908 collection), the most comfortable bracelet I have ever worn, is made up of seven small, slightly curved elements per link and uses a concealed Crownclasp. All three watches are Superlative Chronometers and come with Rolex’s five-year international guarantee.
The original Ref. 8171 has become a serious collector’s watch over the years, and this new model clearly borrows its personality without simply copying it.
The new Calibre 7190 is arguably the star of the show, but the combination of the annual calendar, moonphase, and vintage-inspired design makes the whole thing work. It’s a Rolex that doesn’t feel like it’s trying to please everyone, and honestly, that’s probably the most interesting thing about it.
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