By Jovan Krstevski
Louis Vuitton brings back its first watch, the Monterey from 1988. The original was more a design experiment than a horological effort, built by IWC.
The Montre 1 of 1988 in yellow and white gold
Now, Vuitton has its own manufacture, La Fabrique du Temps. The Monterey returns not as a copy, but as proof of how much the brand has grown since its quartz beginnings.
The 39mm x 12.2mm case is made of 18k yellow gold by La Fabrique des Boîtiers; matching the proportions of the 1988 Monterey. Its clean lines and measured form preserve the architectural tone that Gae Aulenti gave the original design.
Up front, the dial is crafted from grand feu enamel over a white gold base, it’s the sort of artisanal surface that rewards a long stare. About ten layers of enamel are fired at 900°C before being lapped smooth, while the black, red, and blue markings are built up using enamel paste, not ink and fired between each pass. Even the hands join the act; solid gold coated in red lacquer with a blued steel seconds hand tying the composition together.
All mechanical operations are handled by the LFT MA01.02, the same automatic engine seen in the Tambour Taiko Spin Time. It’s a compact 23mm calibre, finished to Genevan standards with oversized jewels, a rose gold winding mass and construction cues straight from high-end watchmaking’s playbook. The power reserve sits at 45 hours, perfectly fine for a piece more about design legacy than marathon autonomy.
The Monterey comes on a black calf leather strap secured by an 18k gold pin buckle. Only 188 pieces will exist, available exclusively through Louis Vuitton boutiques, with pricing set at €50,000 before taxes.
