ByJovan Krstevski
Maurice Lacroix is pressing the accelerator with the ML212 caliber on display, and the new AIKONIC Chronograph Skeleton is proof of that intent. The watch is 43mm of raw presence, its dial carved open so the mechanics are front and center, which seems to be what people want these days; understandably so. There’s definitely something satisfying about watching a chronograph do its thing. You can also read our review of the Aikonic that I did in August.
The case is made of brushed and polished stainless steel and complemented by a black ceramic bezel that combines brushed and polished surfaces with sandblasted ceramic claws. Ceramic bezels have been part of the AIKON story for a while now, and Maurice Lacroix keeps proving they know what works. The material holds up, gives the watch a contemporary feel and the 10 ATM water resistance fits the package perfectly. You’re not taking it diving anyway, are you?
AC8018-SSL20-030-2 & AC8018-SSL20-030-4
What stands out first is the dial layout. It uses a bi-compax setup with the 30-minute counter at 12 and the small seconds at 6, but Maurice Lacroix has done it on a sapphire disc that leaves the movement in plain view. The black version gets a dark grey translucent varnish that follows the lines of the bridges, while the blue model switches to blue. It is a simple move that gives the watch that open-worked feel without turning the dial into chaos. I have seen plenty of skeleton pieces where reading the time becomes a guessing game, and this avoids that problem completely.
The ML212 movement boasts a 62-hour power reserve and is characterized by careful finishing, including Côtes de Genève stripes on the bridges, as well as a skeletonized rotor. For a brand that sits in the accessible luxury segment, Maurice Lacroix has always taken their movement decoration seriously.
The rubber strap uses their new Easy Change system, which I appreciate more than I probably should. Swapping straps without tools is one of those small quality of life improvements that doesn’t really reflect on the aesthetic, but it makes a watch more enjoyable to own. For 4,950 CHF, both versions come with a bi-rubber construction and contrasting stitching that matches the dial color. At this price point, you are getting a reliable workhorse chronograph movement and a well-built watch with a distinctive look.
