BY HARLAN CHAPMAN-GREEN
In case you weren’t aware, I’m sure I’ve mentioned it in some of my other articles, Breguet is one of the many brands marking a significant milestone in its history with its 250th anniversary celebrations. We’ve seen (and have had a hands on with) nearly the whole lineup so far, and more creations are on the way, including these two stunners inspired by history. Let’s take a closer look.
Classique Phase de lune 7235
First up is the Classique ref 7235BH/02/9V6, and if you’re a big fan of the brand, you might feel like you’ve seen this dial layout before, and you have. One of Breguet’s strongest attributes is the sheer depth of history it can draw on, but it still needs to put in the work to make something look fresh. The dial layout on the new Classique 7235 is very similar to that of the old Classique Complications ref 3130, albeit with different indications. Both watches take inspiration from the Breguet No.5 Perpétuelle pocket watch, delivered by Breguet to a customer in 1794.
Like the original No.5 Perpétuelle, the new Classique 7235 has a beautiful guilloché dial, although the pattern cut into it is Breguet’s new Quai de l’Horloge design introduced this year. It’s also made from Breguet Gold, which is the brand’s new rose gold alloy, also created for the anniversary. Perhaps the best part is the way the traditional Breguet styling has been integrated, with the power reserve in the top left and the moonphase in the top right with the seconds in a slightly offset subdial. There were no real attempts to be symmetrical here, and yet it works brilliantly.
Visible through the caseback is the calibre 502.3.DRL. With its offset winding rotor this movement is something special as well. The decoration on it being the main focus: it’s engraved with a representation of the Quai de l’Horloge in Paris, where Breguet’s workshop used to be. It’s still a modern movement, though, with a silicone escapement, a 3Hz beat rate, and 45 hours of power reserve, while being just 3.95mm thick. It’s set within a 39.0mm x 9.9mm Breguet Gold case with 30m of water resistance. Limited to just 250 pieces, this costs CHF65,000, including tax.
Classique Régulateur à Pivot Magnétique 7225
The second model we’re looking at today is the Classique ref 7225BH0H9V6, and this one’s a bit of a different beast from the Classique 7235. Whereas the other watch was a thoughtful and tasteful blend of old world design and “traditional modern” watchmaking, the Classique 7225 fuses those older aesthetics with something much more futuristic.
You may remember that just over ten years ago, Breguet seemed heavily invested in upping the beat rate of its watches from three or four Hertz to ten, claiming that this super high rate meant increased accuracy. It originated in the gargantuan yet underloved Type XXII chronograph watch before being changed and finding a better home in the GPHG winner, the Classique Chronométrie ref 7727. Beyond that the idea went quiet, until now.
The calibre 74SC is the star of the show here, and that 10Hz escapement is the focal point. Beating at 72,000 vibrations per hour, this is one of the fastest escapements used in watchmaking thanks to the magnetic pivot that gives the watch its name. Introduced in the Classique Chronométrie, the magnetic pivot uses a precisely calibrated pair of magnets to make one end of the balance wheel’s shaft float, reducing friction, while the other end remains in contact with its endstone. It seems a little abstract when written, so I’ve included a graphic from the Classique Chronométrie launch to show how the magnetic fields interact. As in the Classique Chronométrie, because its magnets keep the shaft in place, it’s quite resistant to shocks and will self adjust, reverting to the correct position after an impact.
Because the other major escapement components, the balance spring, pallet lever and escape wheel, are made of silicon, which is nonferromagnetic, they’re unaffected by the magnetic field and thus the watch runs smoothly. For those who love the tech specs, you’ll be pleased to know that this watch is spec’d well, featuring a 60 hour power reserve and a manufacture measured deviation +/- 1 second per day.
Then there’s the movement’s finishing. Yes, the calibre 74SC is based on that of the Classique Chronométrie, but the decoration is entirely different, featuring Breguet Gold plates, blued screws and an engraved representation of the Vallée de Joux in Switzerland, where Breguet’s manufacturing operations are based. Even the escape wheel is a piece of art, its high frequency allowing it to act as a dynamic animation alternating between “1775” and “2025”. Have a look at this video to see what I mean, it’s shown briefly at the 23 second mark.
All of this is set within a Breguet Gold case measuring 41.0mm x 10.7mm. Perhaps my favourite part is that Breguet didn’t forget to decorate the case sides, but instead of using its traditional coin edging, it’s gone with the Quai de l’Horloge pattern developed for their 250th birthday. The Breguet Gold dial also carries this pattern, and its layout is quite unique. It’s based on pocket watch No. 1176, delivered by Breguet to a member of the Polish aristocracy, it has the distinction of being the first four minute tourbillon watch from Breguet and only the fifth tourbillon watch ever delivered. On the Classique 7225, we see a small seconds at the top right and a power reserve indicator at the bottom. The other indicator is called the “observation seconds”, it is always running but can be reset with a flyback mechanism connected to the pusher on the left side of the case. Useful if you want to track a one minute event, I suppose, but other than that, I’m not really sure what it’s for.
Unlike the Classique 7235 above, the 7225 is not a limited edition watch, meaning we could see a different colour combination in the core collection in the future. I think this would look great with a platinum case and black-coloured guilloché dial. It will cost CHF75,000, including taxes.
Which of these do you prefer? Let us know in the comments, although I’m sure you will.
