BY HARLAN CHAPMAN-GREEN
The words ‘all black’ mean more than just the world-famous New Zealand rugby team; they also refer to an intriguing trend of watches that have been ‘murdered out’, i.e., given a black coating on every possible surface. Does it help legibility? Probably not, although I have yet to see such a watch in person, as they’re quite rare. IWC’s new Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium ref. IW371631 is the latest addition to this small collective.
Off the bat, I think I quite like it. The Ceratanium case measures 41mm x 13.1mm and blends titanium and ceramic in a secret formula that gives us the robustness of titanium with the scratch resistance of ceramic. The crown and pushers are also made from Ceratanium. The case is water-resistant to 30m.
I’ve always thought that IWC’s Portugieser Chronograph watches are nice-looking but a little plain. You really had to choose the right model to get some life out of them. The all-black appearance gives real character here, and the two subdials at 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock provide balance and just enough detail to make them stand out without becoming illegible. That doesn’t mean telling the time in the daylight is going to be easy, although I’ve not seen it in person to confirm this. What I can confirm is that there’s no lume on the dial or hands, so it’s definitely not readable at night.
Powering this watch is the self-winding calibre 69355, introduced in 2018 and part of IWC’s in-house movement family. With a power reserve of 46 hours and a 4Hz beat rate, its specifications are decent but not mind-blowing. It’s also partly obscured by the tinted caseback, which I find a little odd, as an untinted caseback wouldn’t ruin the appearance when you’re looking at the watch from the front. The chronograph does have a column wheel, which is nice, and its 30-minute chronograph counter reflects that this is a more laid-back piece than IWC’s professional watches.
Presented on a black rubber strap with a black buckle, the new Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium is limited to 1500 watches priced at USD 14,400/EUR 14,800/CHF 13,000 before taxes.
This is very unlikely to be the only IWC watch in your collection, unless you’ve fallen head over heels in love with it and can’t see yourself without it. In that case, go for it; more power to you. I do think this new Portugieser is made for IWC collectors who already have other (maybe more practical) IWC watches. There’s nothing wrong with targeting the followers who love IWC, and the fact that they’ve limited production shows they know the new Portugieser isn’t for everyone.
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