BY HARLAN CHAPMAN-GREEN
Chinese luxury watchmaker Behrens has been making moves in the industry for some time now, and one of their most significant moves is joining Watches & Wonders Geneva for the very first time. They’ve presented in Geneva before at events like Geneva Watch Week. Still, Watches & Wonders Geneva is the largest show of the year and marks an increase in Behrens’ potential audience. For 2026, they present two novelties, each in multiple colourways. Let’s take a look.
Pupil Ultralight
Pupil Ultralight 14G
For 2026, Behrens looks to the ancient Shu civilisation, which existed between the 10th century BCE and 316 BCE in what is now Sichuan Province, China. Drawing inspiration from ancient Chinese artistic treasures, including a geometric shape known as the “Bronze Diamond Eye”, Behrens has set out the movements within the Pupil Ultralight watches for all to see. You can see the straight, geometric lines they’ve drawn inspiration from in the layout of the calibre BM09, where the time is displayed in the lower right with the mainspring barrel and balance wheel drawing a triangle. The hands of the time subdial are shaped to form the “Bronze Diamond Eye” shape when the time is 9:15.
As for the technical details, they’re impressive. Despite there not appearing to be much movement at all, we get 45 hours of power reserve and a day/night indicator at the bottom left. The hour hand of the time dial is also a jumping hour hand that snaps neatly to the next hour. This is placed in Behrens’ uniquely shaped ‘Hu’ case, which is not only longer on one side than the other but also curved to suit the wrist; it’s extremely comfortable to wear. The case of all watches measures 34mm x 39.6mm, and three options are available. The first option is the non-limited Pupil Ultralight 14G, which features a titanium case weighing 14 grams (excluding the strap) and 30m of water resistance. The price is $9,200.
Pupil Ultralight 8G
The other two options, the Pupil Ultralight 8G, are limited to 9 examples each and feature cases made from Lightweight Monolayer Graphene Hybrid, which offers a unique appearance with gold flecks incorporated into it and an incredible lightness; these two watches (excluding their straps) weigh just 8 grams each. One version, seen in the photos, has blue detailing such as the day/night indicator, and the other red and gold. The water resistance for these models is 10m. Both watches cost $33,800 each.
KWH
Symbolising their rise in popularity and technical capabilities, Behrens showcases two new versions of its KWH model, developed in partnership with legendary watchmaker Vianney Halter. These watches have cases inspired by, of all things, electricity meters, but they look great. They measure 35mm x 41mm but are very smooth to the touch, and the squared-off crystal goes right to the case edge. For 2026, we get two new colourways to choose from: white ceramic with a white strap and “Aqua Green” detailing on the movement, and tantalum with “Lazuline Blue” detailing. Both cases are 30m water-resistant.
Inside these watches are 870 components, which is a lot. The reason for this is the hand-wound calibre BM06, which features a novel way of telling the time using a patented micro-chain with a temperature adjustment system to indicate the hours. Around the square edges of the case, you might spot little white dots that seem reminiscent of the game ‘Snake’, this is the hour indicator. It’s not the clearest in person, but it’s impressive to see a chain with rubies as links being used to display the time. There are also barrels for the minutes indicator and the power reserve indicator (these watches have a 72-hour power reserve), a day/night indicator, and visible through the caseback, a moonphase display and a date indicator. There are also pushers to quickly set the moonphase and the date. Limited to 90 examples each, the white ceramic watch costs $30,800, and the tantalum piece costs $33,800.
Did Behrens nail their Watches & Wonders Geneva debut? Let us know in the comments.
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