BY JOVAN K
Roger Dubuis continues its quiet return to form with the new Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar in stainless steel, a watch that feels far more interesting than many of the oversized, ultra-skeletonised pieces people usually associate with the brand. Instead of chasing shock value, this release taps directly into Roger Dubuis history by reviving one of the maison’s most important signatures: the biretrograde display. Originally co-developed by founder Roger Dubuis and Jean-Marc Wiederrecht in 1989, the system remains one of the most visually engaging ways to show calendar information.
What makes this launch more interesting is the timing. At the end of last year, Roger Dubuis celebrated its 30th anniversary with the Hommage La Placide Perpetual Calendar Biretrograde, a limited piece that reintroduced the founder-era aesthetic and one of his favourite complications. That watch leaned heavily into classic elegance, traditional proportions, and archival mechanical ideas.
This new Excalibur clearly borrows some of that momentum. While the design language is sportier and more modern, the renewed focus on biretrograde displays, layered dial architecture, Geneva Seal finishing, and historically rooted complications feels like a direct continuation of what the La Placide model started. In many ways, the anniversary watch opened the door, and this Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar walks through it.
The biggest surprise is the package, as this is not another oversized statement piece, but now in a size that should appeal to a much wider audience, as the new Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar comes in a far more wearable 40mm x 11.25mm stainless steel case. Surfaces alternate between shot-blasted, polished, and satin-brushed finishes, while the signature notched bezel, aggressive crown guards, triple lugs, and sharp architectural lines keep the familiar Excalibur identity intact. Sapphire crystals front and back complete the case, and with 100 meters of water resistance.
The dial uses a complex seven-layer construction finished in a new Cosmic Blue tone, giving it real depth and dimension. A snailed outer flange carries applied hour markers filled with white Super-LumiNova, while the retrograde day and date arcs sit prominently at 9 and 3 o’clock. Both are indicated by openworked hands with red tips, adding contrast and clarity.
At the centre sits a blue plate with the small seconds display, while a rotating disc at 12 o’clock features the Biretrograde signature and Poinçon de Genève shield. White gold skeletonised hour and minute hands with luminous filling complete the display.
The concept is simple but satisfying. Two sweeping retrograde scales dominate the dial, with the day of the week shown on the left and the date on the right. Each hand travels across its arc before snapping back to zero and starting again. It gives the watch constant motion and personality, turning a practical complication into something theatrical.
Visible through the sapphire caseback is the in-house calibre RD840, a movement carrying the prestigious Poinçon de Genève hallmark, and a pink gold rotor is sculpted and inspired by earlier Roger Dubuis designs, linking the new watch to the brand’s historic catalogue.
Specs include:
- Self-winding
- 244 components
- 40 jewels
- 4Hz/28,800vph
- 60-hour power reserve
- 4.1mm thick
It comes on a stainless steel bracelet with a triple-folding clasp and an integrated quick-release system, while an additional calfskin strap is included. That versatility matters because it allows the watch to shift from sporty bracelet mode to a more classic leather look in seconds.
Roger Dubuis has often divided collectors. Some love the bold hyper-horology identity, others miss the elegant watches tied to the founder’s original vision. This watch bridges both worlds. It keeps the aggressive Excalibur styling but pairs it with a complication deeply rooted in the brand’s DNA and packages everything in steel, blue, and wearable proportions.
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