BY HARLAN CHAPMAN-GREEN
Entering the world of haute horlogerie can feel like a minefield, with so many luxury brands vying for your attention and hard-earned cash. But it doesn’t have to be, and we at WristReview feel that it shouldn’t be. To remedy this, we’ve compiled a list of our favourite haute horlogerie watches. These are the watches that we think deserve your attention the most if you’re considering moving into the higher end of the watch world.
To decide on this list, we’ve considered several factors. The chief one of those is the price. While we don’t have a set price bracket, we chose watches that we’d consider “reasonable” for haute horlogerie. This means we’re steering well clear of six figures, but we’re also looking at watches that will set you back more than, say, a stainless steel Rolex or Omega. We’ve looked for watches that feature classy designs, high-end construction and fine decoration. We didn’t consider the watches’ value on the pre-owned market, so we won’t address depreciation here.
So, let’s step into the world of haute horlogerie, shall we?
Honourable mentions:
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso
It doesn’t really matter which of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s endless range of Reversos you pick; each one is a symbol of good taste and a thoughtful choice. I wanted to put the Reverso on the main list, but after a browse through Jaeger-LeCoultre’s website and a bit more thought, I realised there is a better recommendation for you. Still, if you do choose a Reverso, you’ve made a great choice.
Moritz Grossmann TEFNUT
It’s hard not to find anything to love in Moritz Grossmann’s lineup. Since becoming aware of them over a decade ago, I’ve really fallen in love with the way they design their watches, which is quite different from the many other famous watchmakers based in Glashütte, Germany, at least on the dial side. The TEFNUT in stainless steel is one of the most expensive watches on this list, but if you’ve got the cash for it and you want something from an independent, you’ll be hard-pressed to find something more independent than this.
5. Chopard L.U.C XPS Ethical Rose Gold Ref. 161948-5001
Chopard’s L.U.C watches can be a little tricky to navigate if you’re someone who pays attention to the details, and there are several “levels” of workmanship that can go into them, ranging from a standard level with a silver rotor, to gold rotors, gold rotors and the Poinçon de Genève (Geneva Seal), the Qualité Fleurier mark and more. And Chopard applies these “levels” seemingly at random. I’ve chosen the three-handed XPS in 18k Ethical Rose Gold for this list based on the casual wearability of the rose gold and silver combination and the well-decorated (though not Geneva Seal-accredited) calibre L.U.C 96.12-L, which happens to be a COSC-certified chronometer. There is also an 18k Ethical White Gold XPS with a black dial, which is lovely but a little more formal than this model. If you’re feeling brave, I also really like L.U.C Quattro Mark IV, but that is nearly double the price of the XPS. MSRP: US$23,900. Explore more at Chopard
4. Vacheron Constantin Patrimony 42mm White Gold Ref. 1110U/000G-B086
If you’re buying your first haute horlogerie watch and you fancy yourself a classical dress piece inspired by watches from the past, it’s hard to find better than the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony. I know what you’re thinking: Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas is a great choice, and judging by how often I see them on watch forums now, everyone knows it. But the Patrimony is often overlooked when it is one of the classiest dress watches you’ll find from one of the most historic names in the industry. The Geneva Seal movement is just an extra highlight, and the fact that the one chosen here is manually-wound means you’ll have to engage with it, which is where the real joy comes in. MSRP: US$27,500. Explore more at Vacheron Constantin
3. Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport Automatic Ref. PFC930-2020001-400182-EN
I recognise that Parmigiani Fleurier’s Tonda PF Sport Automatic is a bit of an oddball choice on this list; however, I have already mentioned the Overseas, and there is nothing to say a haute horlogerie watch cannot be a sporty watch too. With its 41mm 18k rose gold case, 100m water resistance, and rubber strap, the Tonda might just be the most practical watch here, despite its gold case. There’s also the Clou triangulaire guilloché finishing on the dial, the fluted gold bezel, and the self-winding calibre PF770 with fine Côtes de Genève finishing. Yes, it’s a left-field option, but that’s just a sign of someone who likes to think differently from everyone else, and there’s no harm in that. MSRP: US$44,500. Explore more at Parmigiani Fleurier
2. Breguet Classique Ref. 7147BB/12/9WU
Sticking with the guilloché theme leads us to the number two pick, Breguet’s Classique ref 7147. I chose the 18k white gold version here, which, again, is a little more formal, but if you prefer the 18k rose gold watch, then that’s a personal choice. If you’re looking for a watch that reminds you of where your hard-earned money went, this Classique will immediately fit the bill. The dial features Breguet’s signature look: guilloché hand-cut on a rose lathe, with Clous de Paris guilloché for most of the dial, while the seconds subdial has a basket-weave guilloché finish. A thin bezel, thin lugs and a fluted caseband make the Classique even classier to look at, and something very different from most dress watches. It also has a self-winding movement with a guilloché-decorated offset winding rotor, and it’s just as classy as the dial. MSRP: US$30,900. Explore more at Breguet
1. Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph Calendar Ref. Q413257J
Yes, the Master Control Chronograph Calendar is one of the most expensive watches on this list, but it also offers more than the others. As well as a case made of 18k rose gold (stainless steel is also available, just saying), the watch has both a chronograph and a complete calendar, meaning it shows the date, the day, the month and the moonphase, although you’ll need to adjust it when a month has fewer than 31 days. The Master Control also features a self-winding Calibre 759 on view through the caseback, with plenty of fine finishing throughout. Are you likely to find better finishing from the other brands? Perhaps. But Jaeger-LeCoultre’s finishing is still one of the most renowned features on its watches, and the fact that the calibre is made entirely in-house by the “Grande Maison” as it likes to call itself, only adds to the argument that this is haute horlogerie. MSRP: US$32,500. Explore more at Jaeger-LeCoultre
It’s really difficult to distil such a varied industry into a list of seven watches, because there are so many directions to go, but I think this list highlights how many options there are if you want to take the plunge into the higher-end of the watchmaking world, but maybe can’t or don’t want to splash out on a big all-out purchase. Personal tastes will definitely differentiate us, and I look forward to reading the comments telling me what you agreed with, what you disagreed with, and what you felt I missed.
All prices were accurate at the time of writing.
