BY JOVAN KRSTEVSKI
Moritz Grossmann might not be a name that immediately comes to mind when one thinks about luxury watches, but the Glashütte based brand has been certainly keen on changing things and has come a long way since its resurrection in 2008. The brand’s current collection comprises classic looking timepieces which are a nice blend of Moritz Grossmann’s traditional watchmaking roots and some nice modern technology. The Moritz Grossmann Atum GMT is the latest addition to the brand’s constantly evolving catalog and also happens to be their maiden attempt at one of the most practical complications in today’s globally connected world.
The dial on this watch has a layered architecture and has been cleanly executed with a heavy emphasis on legibility. The outermost circumference of the dial features the crisply printed 24-hour markings which can be used to track a second time zone with the help of a floating triangular marker. Sitting a step above this layer is the main dial which has a beautiful outward radiating sunburst finish to it and houses the applied hour markers and a subsidiary seconds dial at 6, which once again is slightly recessed giving the dial a nice sense of depth. Finally to complete the dial you have the distinctive and handcrafted lance-shaped handset which has been rendered in steel finish for the white gold variant and has been thermally treated to a stunning brown hue for the rose gold case and champagne dial variant.
The case follows the clean execution of the dial and bears an elegant and sophisticated look as seen on previous Moritz Grossmann releases. It measures 41mm wide and is around 11.85 in height, which should make it sit comfortably on a variety of wrists especially with the help of those downward curving lugs.
There are three basic touch points on the case including the crown at 10 to set the second time zone, the crown at 3 to handle normal timekeeping functions and the lateral pusher at 4 which is utilized to restart the movement once you are done with setting the time. There is a sapphire glass on top of the dial and a sapphire exhibition window at the back to give a nice view of the powerhouse behind this watch.
Driving the Atum GMT is the brand’s manually wound in-house caliber 100.8. The movement is made up of a total of 253 parts, operates at a frequency of 18000 bph and offers a power reserve of around 42 hours. The GMT mechanism works in conjunction with the central time function with a system of gear wheels. The movement has been beautifully decorated and features a hand engraved balance cock, broad horizontal Glashütte ribbing and 3-band snailing on the ratchet wheel.
The Mortiz Grossmann Atum GMT is a great looking purpose built watch targeted towards the globetrotters of today. There would be three different variants of the watch – rose gold case with an argenté dial, white gold case with an argenté dial, and white gold case with champagne dial. Each variant would come attached to a hand-stitched alligator strap and would be priced at EUR 29,200. Visit Moritz Grossmann here.
