Pre-Baselworld 2018: Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Moon Black Enamel Watch

By Jovan Krstevski

Back in 2017, Jaquet Droz introduced 3 models of the Grande Seconde: one in steel with a silvery opaline dial, another in steel with a black onyx dial, and the third in red gold with ivory enamel dial. These timepieces were all splendid and received with warmth by the horology community.

Jaquet Droz also integrated a moon phase complication into these amazing and emblematic models making them more appealing to a collector or a fan. In the process, the watchmaker was very careful not to deviate from the true nature of the Grande Seconde watch which in particular centers on the dial. The Grande Seconde simply features two interlaced dials that form a figure eight which many associate with everlasting or abundance. It looks simple but rich in substance and sophistication.

A new addition, making a 4th model is planned this year and will debut at the upcoming Baselworld. This model is the new Grande Seconde Moon Black Enamel.

The watch remains true to its original design and as such it features a fascinating double-level dial in black Grand Feu enamel with an applied satin-finish ring, 18-carat red gold star appliques, and 22-carat gold moon crowning a black onyx moon disk. The lack of color gradients really emphasizes the multi-level dial and honestly, the combination of red gold and lighter indices against a dark background is superb.

At 43 mm, the red gold case looks dressy yet sporty at the same time although I’m inclined to think you’ll bring this into one of those occasions where formal is the norm. Inside this smooth finished case is the self-winding Jaquet Droz 2660QL3 Calibre.

The precious movement is equipped with a balance spring and pallet horns made of friction-resistant and corrosion-resistant material for better precision and durability.It beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour and features an 8 karat red gold oscillating weight which can be seen through the exhibition sapphire crystal case back. There is also an engraving of a unique serial number of each timepiece at the back. Finally, the double barrel movement cranks 68 hours or nearly three days of power reserve.

Interestingly, the astronomical moon phase does not need adjustments in one’s lifetime but after 122 years and 46 days, the Grande Seconde Moon Black Enamel must be adjusted accordingly. This amazing precision is only possible because of the meticulously engineered gear ratio or the specially developed “mechanism 135” which is better than the traditional 59-tooth implementation that accumulates an error of one day in about two-year time.

If an owner badly wants to correct the moon phase indicator, there is a subtle corrector positioned at 8:00 which can be pushed by a specially designed stylus that comes with the timepiece.

Moreover, the new Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Moon Black Enamel wears on an elegant rolled-edge hand-made black alligator strap. Price is pegged at Swiss Francs 29,700 / Euro 30,000 / US$ 28,900. For more info, visit Jaquet Droz online.