BY HARLAN CHAPMAN-GREEN
2025 is truly the year of the anniversary, lots of watchmakers started in a year ending in either zero or five, talk about timing. Czapek & Cie are also marking an anniversary this year, it’s their tenth year in business, growing from a tiny workshop with everyone in one room to the larger, more established manufacturer we know today. For its tenth anniversary, Czapek unveils a special edition of its classic Antarctique dressy/sporty watch, called the Antarctique Plique-à-Jour.
The standout feature of this watch is included in its name: Plique-à-Jour, which is a particularly complex enamelling process hailing from the 6th-century Byzantine Empire. Plique-à-Jour, as I understand it, can be thought of like a miniature form of stained glass, in that enamel is carefully applied to individual “cells”, each with its own colour, on the watch’s dial. The enamel is built up in many layers, and there is a high risk of breakage either in the handling or in the firing stage, due to the delicate nature of enamel. Don’t worry, though, it’s not so delicate once it’s finished, and the result is a perfectly transparent enamel allowing for a look at the movement from the dial side. Plique-à-jour is used predominantly in jewellery and has been made by some of the most well-regarded names in that industry, including Fabergé and Lalique. The use of it here shows Czapek’s commitment to making watches that are as much sculptural and artistic as they are horological.
Czapek collaborated with several companies to get these dials made, including MD’Art, which created the metal structure making up the dial and also printed and finished the dial in its final steps. The enamelling process, including application of colour and the numerous firing steps, was done by Bagues-Masriera, while PBMC was responsible for the polishing, paying extra care to ensure the enamel wasn’t broken at any stage. The result speaks for itself; the dial looks very unique and serves as a fitting tribute to the brand’s anniversary.
Behind the dial and also visible through the caseback is the self-winding calibre SXH7. This movement is derived from the SXH5 which is the brand’s calibre renowned for its multiple bridges and for its micro rotor, which is made from 100% recycled platinum. For more info on the SXH5, check out our recent review of the Antarctique. The SXH7 is a skeletonised version of the SXH5, complete with an open-worked mainspring barrel offering the ultimate view into the calibre, showcasing the extra finishing steps required on all skeletonised movements (as they’re viewable from all angles). The SXH7 features a 4Hz beat rate and a 60-hour power reserve.
The watch is housed in a 40.5mm × 10.6mm stainless steel case with 120 meters of water resistance. It comes with a tapering stainless steel bracelet featuring a folding clasp with micro-adjustment, ensuring both comfort and security. A complimentary rubber strap is also included, and the quick-change system allows for effortless swapping between straps.
Limited to just ten pieces in celebration of ten years of Czapek, this timepiece is already sold out and was priced at CHF 61,200 before tax. We doubt this will be the only collaboration between these companies, so we could see something like this in the future. Better still, if you give Czapek your contact details and register your interest they will be able to contact you should one of these become available. You never know!
