BY JOVAN K
Blancpain knows how to play the long game. While the horological world spent the last decade obsessing over oversized sports watches, the Villeret collection quietly remained the benchmark for pure, unadulterated elegance. Named after the village where Jehan-Jacques Blancpain registered the brand all the way back in 1735, it represents everything a traditional dress watch should be. For 2026, Blancpain is leaning heavily into this heritage, updating the entry-level Villeret Ultraplate 38mm line with softer textures, warmer colorways, and a masterclass in visual balance.
For years, the Ultraplate lived primarily in a 40mm case. That size made sense in the 2010s, but today’s collectors want something a bit more restrained and classic when they pair a watch with a suit. Blancpain answered that shift a few years ago by dropping a 38mm version, and this year, they’ve perfected the recipe. The dimensions hit the dress-watch sweet spot: 38mm x 8.35mm thickness, and a very compact 43.35mm from lug to lug. The polished steel or 18k red gold case features a stepped double-ring bezel that gives it an unmistakable profile, framed on both sides by a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal front and caseback. With a 30m water-resistant rating, it is what we usually expect from a high-end dress piece, shielded from daily splashes while keeping the profile thin enough to slip beneath the stiffest shirt cuff links.
The big story for 2026 is the dial work. Blancpain is introducing a stunning sunray-brushed salmon dial housed in a polished stainless steel case. It is a brilliant, contemporary pairing that keeps the watch from looking too stuffy, especially when paired with the factory anthracite grey alligator strap. The hands and applied Roman numerals are crafted from 18k white gold but treated with a darkened finish to create a perfect, moody contrast against the warm copper-pink background.
If salmon isn’t your thing, Blancpain has rolled out three other variations utilizing a smooth, velvety opaline dial in a soft, light gold-beige hue. You can grab this understated dial configuration in standard stainless steel with white gold accents, a warm 18k red gold case with matching gold furniture, or a handsome boutique-exclusive edition. The boutique variant pairs a steel case with yellow gold dial details and an earthy, olive-green nubuck alligator strap.
Across all the new models, the dial has been re-proportioned for cleaner legibility. The solid gold Roman numerals are beautifully satin-finished on the top with high-polished bevels on the edges. Look closely at the top of the dial, and you’ll notice the traditional “XII” marker has been replaced by the classic “JB” monogram, a nod to the founder. The leaf-shaped hands are incredibly thin, yet Blancpain managed to sneak a sliver of Super-LumiNova down the center so you can read the time when the lights go down.
Flip the watch over, and you are greeted by the beautifully decorated, in-house automatic Calibre 1150. It’s a thin movement at just 3.25mm, and features 28 jewels and 210 components. Operating at 21,600 vibrations per hour, this movement prioritizes longevity and efficiency, allowing it to pack a massive 100-hour power reserve using two mainspring barrels. It’s modern where it counts, utilizing an anti-magnetic silicon hairspring. The steel models feature a newly designed openworked rotor in yellow gold, while the red gold model comes with a matching rotor.
Blancpain is also making life easier for owners by implementing a tool-free, interchangeable strap and buckle system. You can swap out the premium nubuck alligator leather straps in seconds without any anxiety over scratching those beautifully polished lugs.
The 2026 Blancpain Villeret Ultraplate 38mm enters the permanent collection with pricing starting at CHF 9,600 for the stainless steel versions and scaling up to CHF 19,700 for the 18k red gold model. If you are hunting for a highly refined dress watch from a powerhouse manufacture that feels a little less formal and a lot more inviting, this new lineup ticks every single box.
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