Chopard’s L.U.C range of watches is continuously regarded as some of the best in the business. And that goes for all of the L.U.C models, not just one or two. Founded just over 20 years ago, L.U.C is Chopard’s haute horlogerie division, making watches that take on the big names like Patek Philippe & Vacheron Constantin. Suppose there’s a complication you particularly love. In that case, Chopard’s L.U.C either makes it or is in the process of designing it, as they’re always at work developing new complications and new designs.
The newest in the range is a rather avant-garde-looking entry, the L.U.C XP II Sarto Kiton. If you’re into your tailored clothing, then you may know of the name Kiton; otherwise, this will mean very little to you. Kiton is an Italian tailor based in Naples. Established in the late 60s, Kiton makes those fancy suits you see in movies that are always very flattering of the actor, if James Bond were Italian he would no-doubt wear a Kiton suit. The black DLC coated steel case is relatively restrained at 40mm x 7.2mm, so the watch will fit in with all dressy applications, handy if you’re a spy I guess.
The L.U.C XP watch features some not-so-subtle design links to the high-end fabrics industry. The dial of the watch features a houndstooth pattern on the dial, houndstooth being a particular pattern used on clothing from boutique brands. The dial features rose gold markers and hands and the red Kiton logo below the hands as well. Note the lack of date window breaking up the form; this is how to do a simple dress watch folks.
The watch features the hand-made and hand-finished calibre L.U.C 96-53-L. We’ve seen this movement before in the L.U.C XP which we did a hands-on with back in 2017, only this time a piece of smoked sapphire crystal gives the movement a grey tint. It’s quite effective in its attempt to make this seem cutting edge, but personally, I could take it or leave it. The calibre L.U.C 96-53-L is automatically wound via a micro-rotor, it has a run capacity of 58 hours and a beat rate of 4Hz, it’s also been finished to the high standards expected of all L.U.C watches.
Presented on a black fabric strap made of fabric from Kiton (with a red leather strap thrown in as well), the L.U.C XP II Sarto Kiton is limited to 100 examples worldwide for a price of $10,800.