De Grisogono New Retro Black Stripes for Only Watch 2015

By John Galt

Normally when we at Wristreview hear that De Grisogono is to be joining the ‘Only Watch’ auction in aid of research into Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy we immediately envisage flamboyant pieces like this pair in the image below, dripping with diamonds and very showy indeed.


The release from De Grisogono for Only Watch is a retro piece with the subtle touch of black diamonds on the reverse of the rose gold case and it’s an absolute stunner.

De Grisogono New Retro Black Stripes Only Watch 2015 (1)

This new one-off piece for ‘Only Watch’ is a big departure from their usual pieces, with the New Retro Black Stripe. The New Retro is quoted as being inspired by a vintage cigarette case from the 1950’s belonging to founder Fawaz Gruosi which I can personally see but for me it is much more reminiscent of travel clocks from that period with its rounded edges and oblong shape.

De Grisogono New Retro Black Stripes Only Watch 2015 (2)

The warm glow of the rose gold case is not of vintage size but a much more modern interpretation with the case measuring 50mm across an 40mm top to bottom. Two identical sapphire crystals hug the front and back of the piece with curved ends that don’t quite meet on the case, the flanks are smooth and linear but also give the wearer an unobstructed view of the movement. The dial is a deep black with only 2, 3, 4, 8, 9 and 10 numerals on it so it’s not cramped by trying to add all numerals and, therefore, keeping with the vintage look. The crown has been moved to the 12 O’clock position giving the piece even cleaner smooth lines.

De Grisogono New Retro Black Stripes Only Watch 2015 (3)

Turning the piece over the large curved sapphire crystal shows of beautifully, the black PVD coated ETA 2892 movement with a fitted rotor sumptuously open-worked with curlicues. Above and below the movement there are four rows of black diamonds hidden on the case back that distinguish it from the ordinary version. Also known as carbonado, black diamonds were never as fashionable as their white counterparts, until Gruosi came along in the late 1990’s, creating a lavish jewellery set entirely with black diamonds. Inscribed on the case-back is written ‘Only watch’ and unique piece 1/1 to show that this is truly unique and will never be replicated.

Finishing off the piece is a black soft leather strap with black stitching.


Another truly stunning piece for the ‘Only Watch’ auctions, I personally like this piece as it is as far away as possible from their normal creations with heavy diamond presences, this just screams class with its warmth of rose gold coupled with clean crisp smooth lines.

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John Galt caught the horology bug back in 2010 on his first visit to a London watch show and has snowballed since; John has become an avid writer and blogger of timepieces of all kinds, from everyday timepieces to modern Luxury HauteHorology, his favorite brands being HYT and Greubel Forsey that push the boundaries of modern watch-making. John keeps a keen interest in the UK watch scene with their many emerging brands and timepiece’s. John Galt currently contributes watch related articles for online publications in the UK and USA. Read his articles here.