As you know, every year an event called the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) occurs, and it’s where brands from any nation can submit their watches to be assessed by a panel of ‘industry experts’ who will decide from the hundreds of watches sent in which are the best, most innovative or most impactful. We at WristReview do cover the GPHG but not often to the extent of other blogs and journals at least until it gets interesting like it just has done. Not too long ago, the GPHG panel announced their shortlisted watches. These are six watches for every category selected from the often ten or twelve entrants. One of these six will win the award for their division, and one will win the grand prize the ‘Aguille d’Or’. Here’s a list of all watches shortlisted and my thoughts on who could win for each class.
Men’s
GPHG description: men’s watches comprising the following indications only: hours, minutes, seconds, simple date (day of the month), power reserve, classic moon phases; may be adorned with a maximum 5-carat gemsetting.
Alchemists Mechanical Healing – Cu29
DeBethune – DB28 Yellow Tones
Grand Seiko – Spring Drive Manual-Winding Platinum
Grönefeld – 1941 Principia Automatic
Laurent Ferrier – Bridge One
Voutilainen – 28ti
Predicted winner: Grönefeld
Men’s Complication
GPHG description: men’s watches that are remarkable in terms of their mechanical creativity and complexity. These watches may feature all kinds of classic and/or innovative complications and indications (e.g. worldtime, dual-time or other types of model) and do not fit the definition of the Men’s and Mechanical Exception categories.
Audemars Piguet – Code 11:59 by Audemars Piguet Minute Repeater Supersonnerie
Czapek – Place Vendôme “Shadows”
D.Candaux – DC6 – Solstice
Ulysse Nardin – Freak X
Vacheron Constantin – Overseas Tourbillon
Zenith – Defy El Primero Double Tourbillon
Predicted winner: Zenith
Ladies’
GPHG description: women’s watches comprising the following indications only: hours, minutes, seconds, simple date (day of the month), power reserve, classic moon phases; may be adorned with a maximum 8-carat gemsetting.
Bulgari – Pink Gold and Diamonds Serpenti Seduttori
Chanel – J12 Calibre 12.1
Hermès – Galop d’Hermès
Hublot – Classic Fusion Orlinski Titanium Alternative Paver
Moritz Grossmann – TEFNUT Arabian Nights Milanese
Van Cleef & Arpels – Montre Perlée
Predicted winner: Moritz Grossmann
Ladies’ Complication
GPHG description: women’s watches that are remarkable in terms of their mechanical creativity and complexity. These watches may feature all kinds of classic and/or innovative complications and indications (e.g. annual calendar, perpetual calendar, equation of time, complex moon phases, digital or retrograde time display, worldtime, second time zone or other types of model) and do not fit the definition of the Ladies’ and Mechanical Exception categories.
Bulgari – Divas’ Dream the Roman Night
Chaumet – Tourbillon Volant Soleil de Minuit
Jacob & Co – Fleurs de Jardin
Louis Vuitton – Tambour Spin Time Air Pavée
MB&F – Legacy Machine Flying T
Van Cleef & Arpels – Montre Lady Arpels Zodiac Lumineux Aries
Predicted winner: Bulgari
Iconic
GPHG Description: men’s or ladies’ watches from an emblematic collection that has been exercising a lasting influence on watchmaking history and the watch market for more than 25 years.
Audemars Piguet – Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-plat
Girard Perregaux – Quasar
Hamilton – Intra-Matic Automatique Chronographe
IWC Schaffhausen – IWC Hommage à Pallweber Edition «150 Years»
TAG Heuer – Monaco Eighties
Zenith – El Primero A384 Revival
Predicted winner: Audemars Piguet
Chronometry
GPHG description: mechanical watches comprising at least one tourbillon and/or a special escapement and/or another development improving chronometry (precision timekeeping). Additional indications and/or complications are admissible.
Antoine Presziuso Genève – TTR3 Blue Equalizer Frequencies
Armin Strom – Pure Resonance Rose Gold
Ferdinand Berthoud – FB1R.6 – 1
IWC Schaffhausen – Big Pilot’s Watch Constant-Force Tourbillon Edition “Le Petit Prince”
TAG Heuer – Autavia Isograph
Zenith – Defy Inventor
Predicted winner: Zenith
Calendar and Astronomy
GPHG description: men’s mechanical watches comprising at least one calendar and/or astronomical complication (e.g. date, annual calendar, perpetual calendar, equation of time, complex moon phases display, etc.). Additional indications and/or complications are admissible.
Audemars Piguet – Code 11:59 by Audemars Piguet Quantième Perpétuel
Ferdinand Berthoud – Chronomètre FB 1L ‘Far Side of the Moon’
Girard Perregaux – Cosmos
Hermès – Arceau L’heure de la lune
Sarpaneva – Lunations
Ulysse Nardin – Marine Mega Yacht
Predicted winner: Girard Perregaux
Mechanical Exception
GPHG description: men’s and/or ladies’ watches featuring a special mechanism, such as an innovative or sophisticated display, an automaton, a striking or any other acoustic function, a belt-driven movement or any other original and/or exceptional horological concept.
Audemars Piguet – Royal Oak Quantième Perpétuel Ultra-plat Automatique
Bulgari – Octo Roma Grande Sonnerie Calendrier Perpétuel
Genus – GNS 1.2
Ulysse Nardin – Freak NeXt
Urwerk – AMC
Vacheron Constantin – Traditionnelle Twin Beat quantième perpétuel
Predicted winner: Vacheron Constantin
Chronograph
GPHG description: mechanical watches comprising at least one chronograph indication. Additional indications and/or complications are admissible.
Bulgari – Octo Finissimo Chronographe GMT Automatique
Chopard – L.U.C Chrono One Flyback
Hublot – Classic Fusion Ferrari GT 3D Carbon
Louis Moinet – Chronosphère
TAG Heuer – Carrera Tourbillon Nanograph
Zenith – Defy El Primero 21 Carbon
Predicted winner: Bulgari
Diver’s
GPHG description: watches linked to the world of diving, whose functions, materials and design are suited to this activity.
DeBethune – DB28GS Grand Bleu
Longines – HydroConquest
Resovoir – Hydrosphere Blackfin
Ressence – Type 5
Seiko – Prospex LX
Ulysse Nardin – Diver Great White
Predicted winner: Seiko
Jewellery
GHPG description: watches demonstrating exceptional mastery of the art of jewellery and gemsetting, and also distinguished by the choice of stones.
Bulgari – Serpenti Misteriosi Romani
Chopard – Nénuphar
Hermès – Arceau H Déco
Hublot – Big Bang One Click Rainbow
Jacob & Co – The Mystery Tourbillon
Van Cleef & Arpels – Montre à Secret Jardin de Glace
Predicted winner: Chopard
Artistic Crafts
GPHG description: watches demonstrating exceptional mastery of one or several artistic techniques such as enamelling, lacquering, engraving, guilloché (engine-turning), skeleton-working, etc.
Andersen Genève – Vita Vinum
Bereve Timepieces – Numbers – Enamel Grand Feu
Chopard – L.U.C XP Esprit de Fleurier Peony
Hermès – Arceau Baobab Cat
Jacob & Co – Astronomia Dragon
K. Voutilainen – Starry Night Vine
Predicted winner: K.Voutilainen
“Petite Aiguille”
GPHG description: watches with a retail price between CHF 4,000 and CHF 10,000. Smartwatches are admissible in this category.
David Rutten Meteorite Watches – Streamline
IWC Schaffhausen – Big Pilot’s Chronographe Spitfire
Kudoke – Kudoke 2
Maurice Lacroix – Aikon Mercury
Trilobe – Les Matinaux Gris Soleillé
Zenith – Pilot Type 20 Silver
Predicted winner: Maurice Lacroix
Challenge
GPHG description: watches with a retail price under CHF 4,000. Smartwatches are admissible in this category.
Ciga Design – Les montres mécaniques mono-aiguille·Globe
Doxa – SUB 200
Gorilla Watches – Fastback GT Drift
Ming – 17.06 Copper
Seiko – Presage Arita Porcelain
Tudor – Black Bay P01
Predicted winner: Ciga Design
Aiguille d’Or (grand prize) predictions:
First choice: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Twin Beat quantième perpétuel
Second choice: Zenith Defy Inventor
Third choice: Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 1L ‘Far Side of the Moon’
Visit GPHG here.
