GPHG 2019: The 84 Finalists

As you know, every year an event called the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) occurs, and it’s where brands from any nation can submit their watches to be assessed by a panel of ‘industry experts’ who will decide from the hundreds of watches sent in which are the best, most innovative or most impactful. We at WristReview do cover the GPHG but not often to the extent of other blogs and journals at least until it gets interesting like it just has done. Not too long ago, the GPHG panel announced their shortlisted watches. These are six watches for every category selected from the often ten or twelve entrants. One of these six will win the award for their division, and one will win the grand prize the ‘Aguille d’Or’. Here’s a list of all watches shortlisted and my thoughts on who could win for each class.

Men’s

GPHG description: men’s watches comprising the following indications only: hours, minutes, seconds, simple date (day of the month), power reserve, classic moon phases; may be adorned with a maximum 5-carat gemsetting.

Alchemists Mechanical Healing – Cu29

DeBethune – DB28 Yellow Tones

Grand Seiko – Spring Drive Manual-Winding Platinum

Grönefeld – 1941 Principia Automatic

Laurent Ferrier – Bridge One

Voutilainen – 28ti

Predicted winner: Grönefeld

Men’s Complication

GPHG description: men’s watches that are remarkable in terms of their mechanical creativity and complexity. These watches may feature all kinds of classic and/or innovative complications and indications (e.g. worldtime, dual-time or other types of model) and do not fit the definition of the Men’s and Mechanical Exception categories.

Audemars Piguet – Code 11:59 by Audemars Piguet Minute Repeater Supersonnerie

Czapek – Place Vendôme “Shadows”

D.Candaux – DC6 – Solstice

Ulysse Nardin – Freak X

Vacheron Constantin – Overseas Tourbillon

Zenith – Defy El Primero Double Tourbillon

Predicted winner: Zenith

Ladies’

GPHG description: women’s watches comprising the following indications only: hours, minutes, seconds, simple date (day of the month), power reserve, classic moon phases; may be adorned with a maximum 8-carat gemsetting.

Bulgari – Pink Gold and Diamonds Serpenti Seduttori

Chanel – J12 Calibre 12.1

Hermès – Galop d’Hermès

Hublot – Classic Fusion Orlinski Titanium Alternative Paver

Moritz Grossmann – TEFNUT Arabian Nights Milanese

Van Cleef & Arpels – Montre Perlée

Predicted winner: Moritz Grossmann

Ladies’ Complication

GPHG description: women’s watches that are remarkable in terms of their mechanical creativity and complexity. These watches may feature all kinds of classic and/or innovative complications and indications (e.g. annual calendar, perpetual calendar, equation of time, complex moon phases, digital or retrograde time display, worldtime, second time zone or other types of model) and do not fit the definition of the Ladies’ and Mechanical Exception categories.

Bulgari – Divas’ Dream the Roman Night

Chaumet – Tourbillon Volant Soleil de Minuit

Jacob & Co – Fleurs de Jardin

Louis Vuitton – Tambour Spin Time Air Pavée

MB&F – Legacy Machine Flying T

Van Cleef & Arpels – Montre Lady Arpels Zodiac Lumineux Aries

Predicted winner: Bulgari

Iconic

GPHG Description: men’s or ladies’ watches from an emblematic collection that has been exercising a lasting influence on watchmaking history and the watch market for more than 25 years.

Audemars Piguet – Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-plat

Girard Perregaux – Quasar

Hamilton – Intra-Matic Automatique Chronographe

IWC Schaffhausen – IWC Hommage à Pallweber Edition «150 Years»

TAG Heuer – Monaco Eighties

Zenith – El Primero A384 Revival

Predicted winner: Audemars Piguet

Chronometry

GPHG description: mechanical watches comprising at least one tourbillon and/or a special escapement and/or another development improving chronometry (precision timekeeping). Additional indications and/or complications are admissible.

Antoine Presziuso Genève – TTR3 Blue Equalizer Frequencies

Armin Strom – Pure Resonance Rose Gold

Ferdinand Berthoud – FB1R.6 – 1

IWC Schaffhausen – Big Pilot’s Watch Constant-Force Tourbillon Edition “Le Petit Prince”

TAG Heuer – Autavia Isograph

Zenith – Defy Inventor

Predicted winner: Zenith

Calendar and Astronomy

GPHG description: men’s mechanical watches comprising at least one calendar and/or astronomical complication (e.g. date, annual calendar, perpetual calendar, equation of time, complex moon phases display, etc.). Additional indications and/or complications are admissible.

Audemars Piguet – Code 11:59 by Audemars Piguet Quantième Perpétuel

Ferdinand Berthoud – Chronomètre FB 1L ‘Far Side of the Moon’

Girard Perregaux – Cosmos

Hermès – Arceau L’heure de la lune

Sarpaneva – Lunations

Ulysse Nardin – Marine Mega Yacht

Predicted winner: Girard Perregaux

Mechanical Exception

GPHG description: men’s and/or ladies’ watches featuring a special mechanism, such as an innovative or sophisticated display, an automaton, a striking or any other acoustic function, a belt-driven movement or any other original and/or exceptional horological concept.

Audemars Piguet – Royal Oak Quantième Perpétuel Ultra-plat Automatique

Bulgari – Octo Roma Grande Sonnerie Calendrier Perpétuel

Genus – GNS 1.2

Ulysse Nardin – Freak NeXt

Urwerk – AMC

Vacheron Constantin – Traditionnelle Twin Beat quantième perpétuel

Predicted winner: Vacheron Constantin

Chronograph

GPHG description: mechanical watches comprising at least one chronograph indication. Additional indications and/or complications are admissible.

Bulgari – Octo Finissimo Chronographe GMT Automatique

Chopard – L.U.C Chrono One Flyback

Hublot – Classic Fusion Ferrari GT 3D Carbon

Louis Moinet – Chronosphère

TAG Heuer – Carrera Tourbillon Nanograph

Zenith – Defy El Primero 21 Carbon

Predicted winner: Bulgari

Diver’s

GPHG description: watches linked to the world of diving, whose functions, materials and design are suited to this activity.

DeBethune – DB28GS Grand Bleu

Longines – HydroConquest

Resovoir – Hydrosphere Blackfin

Ressence – Type 5

Seiko – Prospex LX

Ulysse Nardin – Diver Great White

Predicted winner: Seiko

Jewellery

GHPG description: watches demonstrating exceptional mastery of the art of jewellery and gemsetting, and also distinguished by the choice of stones.

Bulgari – Serpenti Misteriosi Romani

Chopard – Nénuphar

Hermès – Arceau H Déco

Hublot – Big Bang One Click Rainbow

Jacob & Co – The Mystery Tourbillon

Van Cleef & Arpels – Montre à Secret Jardin de Glace

Predicted winner: Chopard

Artistic Crafts

GPHG description: watches demonstrating exceptional mastery of one or several artistic techniques such as enamelling, lacquering, engraving, guilloché (engine-turning), skeleton-working, etc.