Some say that dress watches shouldn’t be more than 36mm in diameter, while others argue that around 40mm is a good size for all watches. So when Jaquet Droz made their Grande Seconde Quantième in 43mm, most people shunned it as another watch taking part in the inflation game that runs around the watch industry. They made a 39mm version as well, but to finalise the range, a new 41mm model has been added.

Technically, seven new models of the 41mm diameter Grande Seconde Quantième had been added to the collection. These are all in different combinations of colours and finishes and are remarkably different. The four models made of red gold all come with grande feu enamel dials of various colours. Black and blue are the standard colours, but ivory and burgundy are also available. In 18k red gold, the watch will cost CHF20,550.

If red gold isn’t your thing, then steel is the alternate, for which there are three variants. There’s a classy black dial or a formal white option, as well as a more casual red and blue model too. These watches don’t have grande feu dials; their dials are sandblasted instead. Also, they come on velvet-textured calfskin straps instead of alligator leather like the red gold watches. These will cost you  CHF9750.

Inside these classy timepieces is the calibre JD 2660Q2, an in-house made automatic movement which has a 68-hour power reserve and a 4Hz beat rate. The rotor has been cut away as much as possible to reveal the movement beneath it. Still, I’d like to see some more decoration at this price point. Whether it’s fine chamfering or general engraving of the rotor, I think the movement is a little too cold from Jaquet Droz, whose founder and namesake made extravagant automata. It’s pretty, though, and it has a silicone hairspring.

None of these watches is a limited production model.

Visit Jaquet Droz here.

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