BY ERIK SLAVEN
Jaeger-LeCoultre is among the top Swiss luxury watchmakers and the brand has never been afraid to experiment with new ideas. In the late 1930’s, the company even produced a sophisticated, compact 35mm camera machined from aluminum – the Compass Camera. At the start of that decade, the rectangular Reverso watch debuted with a positively Art Deco style. Designed to withstand the rigors of polo matches by flipping the case to keep the crystal protected, the instantly recognizable Reverso has become an icon for Jaeger-LeCoultre as it’s grown in size and sophistication. Here’s our top 5 Reverso watches.
5 – Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds ref. 397846J
Your eye will immediately be drawn to the wine-red dial, which represents the simple sophistication of the Reverso’s history. It wouldn’t look out of place in the 1930s. It’s a time-only piece and all of the classic elements are present, including the three straight gadroons on the top and bottom of the case, rounded edges and slightly curved blank case back. You probably won’t be playing a sport on horseback with such a luxurious piece, but the vibe is clearly there. The stainless steel case is compact at 45.6 x 27.4mm, which is perfect for the board room or night on the town. The hand-wound Jaeger-LeCoultre caliber 822/2 with a 45-hour power reserve is thoroughly modern with a retro feel. This Reverso is a perfect, understated blend of old and new. It retails for USD 8,750/EUR 8,400.
4 – Reverso Classic Duetto ref. 2578422
This piece takes the Reverso concept to the next level, adding a second watch face to the reverse side. It removes the original intent of protecting the crystal, but provides two distinct personalities within one case. It’s got a nice and naughty thing going with light and dark dials, allowing you to go from a day with clients to a night at the club, always maintaining a sophisticated and elegant presence. At 40.1 x 24.4mm, the stainless steel case is targeted at women, which is reinforced by two rows of diamonds replacing the gadroons on the dark side. Limited to just hours and minutes on both sides, the automatic caliber maintains a 38-hour power reserve with two faces working simultaneously. This Reverso maintains the classic look while adding a second, aesthetically opposite dial with a splash of diamonds to remind you to unwind at night and release your dark side. It retails for USD 10,600/EUR 10,200.
3 – Reverso Tribute Duoface Small Seconds ref. 3988482
This men’s piece brings dual time zones and a day/night indicator to the twin-face concept. The stainless steel case is 47 x 28.3mm, so definitely on the larger end of the Reverso line. The front side has a classic blue dial with a sunray brushed finish and time only setup (with small seconds). The reverse dresses things up with a silver Clous de Paris guilloché pattern surrounding two sub-dials. The bottom dial features a day/night indicator and hours are set via a slider at the top of the case (accessible during the front/back transition). This allows for a nifty dual time zone arrangement that exploits the potential and novelty of the Reverso concept. The hand-wound movement has a 42-hour power reserve, which is plenty for those long flights to the next meeting or vacation spot (Barcelona, anyone?). It retails for USD 11,600/EUR 11,200.
2 – Reverso Tribute Duoface Moon ref. 3958420
Who doesn’t like a well-executed moon phase? This piece flexes some horological muscle with a classic moon phase on the front, surrounded by a pointer date. The silver dial, gadroons and curved edges are presented in an oversized stainless steel package at 49.4 X 29.9mm, bringing a large case to those that don’t prefer classic proportions. It retains the timeless 1930s vibe, but for a contemporary wrist. The reverse side again takes advantage of dual time with a blue Clous de Paris guilloché pattern surrounding the dials. The day/night indicator is trendy with a sun/moon motif and the hours are again set via a slider at the top of the transitioning case. The Reverso line tends to have a slight androgynous tone given its square shape and conservative size, but this one is squarely aimed at the modern, masculine crowd. It retails for USD 14,400/EUR 13,800.
1 – Hybris Mechanica Calibre 179 – ref. 3946420
Let’s get serious for a minute. Moon phases and dual time zones are cool and all, but Jaeger-LeCoultre knows a thing or two about Haute Horology and this Reverso doesn’t pull any punches. Limited to 75 pieces and dressed in platinum, the star of the show is a radical, spherical gyrotourbillon. Leave your pedestrian flying tourbillons at home. The multi-axis tourbillon follows the original Gyrotourbillon (round case) from 2004 and Reverso Gyrotourbillon 2 from 2008, the latter being so large and heavy, it wasn’t really wearable. This one’s still large at 51.1 x 31mm (the largest on this list), but reasonable enough to be practical. A showpiece of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s “Métiers Rares” (rare crafts), the double-axis tourbillon cage spins 360 degrees (perpendicular to the dial) every 12.6 seconds, while also making a full rotation once per minute along the dial plane (which doubles as a seconds indicator). Look close and you’ll also see a spherical hairspring. The front dial features a day/night indicator on the top left and a sunburst guilloché pattern on the bottom half. The back is even wilder with a skeletonized aesthetic that’s meticulously hand-decorated, a day/night indicator and second time zone at 2 o’clock, and a small seconds hand extending from the tourbillon cage. The ultimate in sophistication and finishing with a cool factor on steroids, the Hybris Mechanica Calibre 179 is the pinnacle of Reverso design. Sell your Lamborghini as it retails for USD 309,400/EUR 270,000.
So, what do you think of our list? Do you have a preferred Reverso that didn’t make the cut? Let us know in the comments below. With so many models since 1931, it’s very difficult to narrow it down to five.
