BY HARLAN CHAPMAN-GREEN
Bell & Ross’ sports watches are renowned worldwide for their craftsmanship and ruggedness, as well as the square case, which is their main selling point. The BR-(-)5 watches they’ve made have done well, too. We’ve reviewed the BR-05 Horolum and were very pleased with its appearance, finishing level for the price and the substantial build which made it feel like an obvious quality item. Since then, Bell & Ross have introduced the BR-X5, which is a slightly meatier watch than the BR-05 with a three-day power reserve and an improved movement, the latter of which has been a sticking point with potential buyers since the BR-05 launched, at least according to WristReview’s comments section.
What we’re seeing here is another view into the playful side of this French brand. Sure, Bell & Ross makes serious-looking pilot’s watches and whatnot, but their eccentricities are never too far away. In this case, it’s clear that this Parisian brand thinks the city of light doesn’t have enough lights in it, as it’s covered a BR-X5 almost entirely in lume. The BR-X5 Green Lum fits into the “Lum” series of watches, where the brand takes luminescence to the max.
Given that previous entries into the “Lum” collection have included luminescent rubber straps, I’m surprised the new watch has a more ordinary black rubber one. Perhaps manufacturing the luminescent strap was trickier than expected. Still, it’s connected to a very attractive 41mm x 12.8mm grade 2 titanium case with a black DLC coating. There’s also a luminescent fibreglass exterior for most of the case and the bezel topper, with black titanium emerging from the deep for the bezel edge, screws, crown and crown guard. Water resistance is 100m.
The black dial looks to have a matte finish, which matches the strap and titanium elements of the case, and the lume has been dialled (no pun intended) up to eleven as well with plenty of accenting to compliment the hands and markers.
Inside is the self-winding calibre BR-CAL.323, which is made exclusively for Bell & Ross by Kenissi. The BR-CAL.323 is a COSC-certified chronometer which beats at 4Hz, and has a long three-day power reserve, which is displayed by a power reserve indicator on the dial. The self-winding movement is visible through the caseback thanks to a smoked crystal, which tints the view but still allows one to peer inside.
This newest piece is limited to just 500 examples worldwide at a price of €11,900.
