By Jovan Krstevski
The Perpetual Calendar is a classic example of German precision engineering combined with functionality. We normally think of a traditional perpetual calendar to be very difficult to read but here is Glashütte trying to break this notion by simplifying the complexity of such a watch. The new Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar indeed impresses with its remarkable legibility.
Perpetual calendars are very useful complications in the sense that they tell you the time, day, date, month, even the leap year which sometimes we hardly remember. So how did Glashütte simplified the experience? The answer is simple, instead of using traditional subdials, Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar shows all the calendar information using highly legible windows. The watch is available in 3 models: in red gold with dark brown aligator leather strap, in steel with black aligator leather strap, and in steel with steel bracelet.
The 42 mm case looks classy yet very functional with 5 bar water proofing thanks to its sturdy crown with double G-logo and screwed case back. It looks good on any of the models. What really impresses though is the impressive dial. The new watch differs from its predecessors by adding an interesting complexity, which is the leap year indicator. Everything you expect is still there, such as the brand’s signature Panorama Date display at 4 o’clock, the day and month displays at 10 and 2 o’clock, and an aperture for the moon phase display at 8 o’clock. Interestingly, the moon on the moon phase indicator matches the case material which is cool. This means for the red gold model, there’s a red gold moon and for the stainless steel model, there’s a white gold moon.
The sophisticated leap year indicator is really a very cool addition to this classic watch. Amazingly, this is done using a multi-part cam wheel: mounted above its month disc, with its clear recess for the month of February (February-cam) which then makes one revolution in four years. Worth noting is that it’s remarkably easy to access the various functions amid the watch’s complicated mechanisms. Discreet correctors on the case permit the individual adjustment of weekday, month and moon phase displays. A universal corrector adjusts the day, date and month simultaneously if needed.
Powering the watch is a new in-house automatic movement Caliber 36–02 packing a whopping 100 hours of power reserve while operating at the modern 4 Hz. Such long power is made possible with a single barrel with an exceptionally long 68cm mainspring developed by Nivarox, Glashütte Original’s Swatch stablemates. Also, if you look at the exhibition caseback, you’ll see part of the handsomely decorated movement such as the large rotor and attractively embellished third-quarter plate.
Glashütte assures that these watches have undergone meticulous testing fulfilling the manufacture’s promise of a new standard of quality. There is even an online portal where a buyer can see the performance of their watch during a thorough 24-day in-house testing in full detail. glashuette-original.com
