BY HARLAN CHAPMAN-GREEN
Jaeger-LeCoultre, the watchmaker’s watchmaker, one of the most respectable names in the world of horology. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s reputation has been earned over the many years that it’s been in operation, from making simple watches to complex watches to the world’s smallest mechanical watches, they’ve done it all. Now, they’ve revamped one of their more intriguing models that was introduced in 2013 with updated styling for 2025, let’s take a look.
On the face of it (pun intended), the new Master Grande Tradition Calibre 985 watches look like they’re brand new pieces which is a compliment to the design, as they’re not. Given that all of the indications are in the same places (and that funny little step by the tourbillon is still there) as they were in 2013 back when this model line was called the Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Cylindrique a Quantième, I think it looks totally fresh.
Three versions of the watch have been introduced, two in platinum and one in 18k pink gold. All three have the same dimensions, with their cases measuring 42mm x 13.27mm. Some things have changed since the 2013 Tourbillon Cylindrique was introduced, however. For example, these watches have new cases with details like slightly hollowed lugs with graining added and combinations of brushing, polishing and that graining which gives all three watches a contemporary look that keeps up with Jaeger-LeCoultre’s current design language. One platinum model even comes with a diamond-set bezel.
The dials have new colours for 2025, with the platinum models having a blue sunray dial and the gold model a soft brown sunray dial. I’m a little saddened to see they didn’t go for the attractive striped sunray finish they’ve used on the Master Grande Tradition Calibre 950 watches, I think that would really make these pop. Still, all that we have on these new watches looks great, the perpetual calendar subdials seem easy to read and the layout is totally logical.
There’s no running seconds hand on these watches as such, that’s because instead we get a good view of the Calibre 985’s tourbillon. The escapement in this watch is quite unique as the balance wheel insider the tourbillon uses a cylinder-shaped hairspring rather than the traditional flat spring. This is a design from centuries ago that’s been brought into the 21st century, Jaeger-LeCoultre says the cylinder hairspring is more accurate than a traditional spring. It is much harder to make, though, but Jaeger-LeCoultre has the knowhow to make its own hairsprings which is a rarity in the watch world. As for the specs, you can expect the calibre 985 to last for about 45 hours, and it has a 4Hz beat rate. The movement is self-winding with a gold rotor embellished with a representation of a medal won by company half-namesake Antoine LeCoultre.
All three of these watches are incredibly attractive in my view although the platinum version without diamonds is my favourite. I’m really liking the design language Jaeger-LeCoultre has been speaking these past few years. And yet, it’s not enough to give us any ideas of the price of these watches, which is only available upon request.
