BY HARLAN CHAPMAN-GREEN
One of the great things about higher-end watchmaking is the diversity of it. The sky’s the limit for any watchmaker looking to adapt their watches into something new, and while most watches use the same format to tell the time and the same materials the amount of differences from one brand to the next is astonishing. Some brands are more experimental than others, though. We usually see avant-garde watchmakers like Urwerk experimenting with how the time is displayed, and Hublot can often be found fusing absolutely anything into a watch case, while names like Vacheron Constantin get creative in a way that’s cohesive with their brand identity. So, imagine my surprise when I was emailed the two pieces from L.U.Chopard we’re going to talk about today.
L.U.C Flying T Twin
The first piece is a super-limited production L.U.C. Flying T Twin watch. Just eight of these watches will ever be made, and you can understand why, given the material (and mechanical) complexities of it. This 42mm diameter piece is made of 18k white Fairmined, which has been sourced ethically and gives a good price to all those involved in its production. Chopard has been the pioneer in using ethically-sourced materials for some time now, and we desperately hope other watchmakers will follow suit. The white gold of the case isn’t particularly visible, however, as it’s been adorned with brilliant baguette-cut sapphires, the crown has them on too.
Showing off the art of gem-setting at Chopard is the dial, which is solid gold with baguette cut sapphires which have been arranged in a way that they form a gradient which gets darker towards the edges. Chopard tells us that it takes them 106 hours to set the gems on each watch.
Thankfully, the rest of it is quite simple. Chopard’s unique notched dauphine hands, made of white gold, tell the time, and there’s a cutout to view the flying tourbillon through. The tourbillon is the beating heart of the calibre L.U.C 96.24-L, which is a self-winding certified chronometer movement powered by a 22k gold micro-rotor. The movement has been awarded Poinçon de Genève status and has decadent finishing. My favourite feature is the ring of sapphires which frame the movement. The power reserve is 65 hours. Price on application.
L.U.C Full Strike Sapphire
Just in case that last watch wasn’t complicated or exclusive enough, a new version of Chopard’s award-winning L.U.C Full Strike watch appears. The Full Strike appeared several years ago, and is one of the most technically complex pieces Chopard has ever made. Its minute repeater is most renowned for its gongs which are made of sapphire crystal rather than metal. By connecting these springs to the crystal over the dial, Chopard ensured their minute repeater sang louder and clearer than others.
Chopard has done a few different case variations of the L.U.C Full Strike, but this limited edition piece kicks it up a notch with its blue sapphire case and blue strap. Creating a case of sapphire crystal is one of the most technically challenging things a brand can do, but making a coloured sapphire crystal case adds many new headaches. The 42.50mm x 11.55mm case uses chromium and other elements to create the blue colour, which is completely even without any patches, bubbles or hazy areas. The dial is also made of sapphire crystal for extra pizazz.
The. L.U.C 08.01-L movement is on show through the front and the back of this piece. The key specs are a 4Hz beat rate and a 60-hour power reserve. But, there are several other highlights to consider, such as the twin barrel technology employed to keep it all running. The minute repeater has a separate barrel, wound by the crown, which operates it, which means it doesn’t drain the main watch’s reserve or affect its accuracy by drawing power. It also knows if it has enough reserve to complete a chiming sequence and will block off the minute repeating function if it doesn’t have enough, thus preventing damage. Further, the minute repeater is controlled by a pusher set in the crown. A patented system blocks the pusher from use when the minute repeater is operating, which protects the movement from more damage. The movement is a certified chronometer and has been awarded the Poinçon de Genève. As with the Flying T Twin, the price is available upon request.
