By Jovan K
The 1970s are back and no, we’re not talking flared jeans and shag carpets. The new Favre Leuba Chief Chronograph takes all the best bits from the brand’s vintage Chrono Valjoux 23 and gives it a serious glow up for 2025.
Right out of the box, the Chief feels like something you’d find in your stylish uncle’s drawer, only sharper. The cushion shaped 41mm case has all kinds of retro charm, but the finishing is pure modern finesse. Brushed steel up top, polished sides and lugs that flow effortlessly smooth.
The dial has choices between classic black, rich navy blue, or a breezy ice blue that just radiates “summer”. The subdials are tastefully tucked at 3 and 9, everything’s laid out with purpose and polish without clutter. Appealing to the utilitarian side, the hands and markers are rhodium plated and treated with Super-LumiNova X1. Around the edge lies a discreet tachymeter scale further enhancing the pragmatic aspect. The raised 3D Favre Leuba logo on the dial is also subtly executed.
Flip the watch over and through the sapphire caseback, you get a peek at the automatic column wheel caliber FLC02, co-developed with La Joux-Perret. It’s all dressed up with Geneva stripes, perlage and blued screws, plus a gold plated rotor that’s basically horological jewelry.
The Chief Chronograph comes on either a dial matched integrated rubber strap, or a steel bracelet that nails the balance between sporty and dressy and thanks to the easy-change mechanism, both swap out in a snap when needed.
Favre Leuba Chief Chronograph is priced at €5,000 / $4,975 on rubber or €5,100 / $5,075 on steel bracelet.
