BY HARLAN CHAPMAN-GREEN
Last year Breguet unveiled a brand new pair of watches for their Type XX line. The generation of Type XXs before those had been around since the 1990s and, as handsome as they may have been, were long overdue for a refresh. You guys were, ah, honest about your thoughts on the new watches, of which we got the Type 20 “military” and Type XX “civilian” versions. The new model, with the reference 2067RK/Y9/9WU, is most definitely a “civilian” model, as is made clear by the dial’s layout and the fact it’s made of gold.
I guess this watch could be worn by senior officers of the armed forces. Heck, the 42mm x 14.1mm 18k rose gold case may even work with the fancy gold braid they often have on their uniforms. Either way, it’s clear that this is meant to be a classy and contemporary sports watch, which it succeeds in being. It’s also inspired by a rare model, Brgeuet no. 1780 which is a part of Breguet’s museum collection and is notable as being one of three solid Type XX/20 watches Breguet made in 1955. Back then, the watches were being used for practical purposes by pilots of the French Air Force. Breguet’s third-generation Type XX models, beginning in the 1990s, did introduce gold and platinum cases (and bracelets in some rare cases), but these didn’t have a ceramic bezel.
This new model follows suit in some ways. For example, this is the first time Breguet has put a ceramic bezel insert into a gold bezel. Also, the blue dial has a sunray finish now, which is eye-catching, and I particularly like the applied Breguet logo in gold, it’s a luxurious touch.
Powering this luxuriousness is the self-winding calibre 728, which was introduced last year. Previously, the flyback movements in the Type XX collection were made by Lemania (which may or may not be calling itself Manufacture Breguet these days); they were cam-operated flyback chronograph movements and worked well, although they lacked sophistication. The Calibre 728 is an all-new movement featuring the flyback chronograph function, which now has both a column wheel and vertical clutch, allowing for very precise operation. It’s also highly decorated and now visible through the sapphire crystal unlike most of the older Type XX models. In terms of specifications, the calibre 728 features a long 60-hour power reserve, silicone components and a 5Hz beat rate, which are plentiful and certainly seem similar to those offered by Blancpain in their Air Command ref. AC02 36B40 63.
In fact, the Air Command might well be the only block the Type XX stumbles on. If you like the design of the Breguet, then you’ll probably like the design of the Blancpain, too, as it’s also quite historically inspired. Sure, the movement in the Breguet runs for 60 hours, more than the 50 hours you’d get from the Blancpain, but that’s a small detail in the grand scheme of things. Not to mention, the Blancpain is slightly more affordable as it’s nearly $7,000 cheaper than the Type XX, which will set you back $37,900 USD, including VAT. The Breguet comes with quick change straps, but that doesn’t really cover the price difference and I imagine Blancpain either does that or can set you up easily.Â
If you’re considering one of these then you’re probably in a position where money doesn’t matter too much, and so it comes down to the design to do the talking. I think the Breguet is a strong offering here and certainly more interesting than something with a Greek symbol or a coronet on it, even if it’s not one that should be bought with investment propositions in mind. A Breguet is something you buy with the heart. It’s part of why they’re so good.
