BY HARLAN CHAPMAN-GREEN
Parmigiani Fleurier is a bit of an oddball watchmaker. They make traditionally designed watches, but they add their own distinctive flair to them. They’ve always been this way, just look at the fantastic Pershing watches they used to make or the unique Ovale Pantographe. They’re very unique watches, but with a classic design underpinning them. With that said, it’s under the leadership of the current CEO, Guido Terrini, that Parmigiani Fleurier’s watches seem to have traded some of their quirkiness in favour of more sensible styling with plenty of class, and most likely more sales. The newly revamped Toric line, which arrived in 2024 and received two new additions at Watches & Wonders this year, is the prime example of this. Time flies, and Parmigiani Fleurier has two new additions to the range.
When the Toric Petite Seconde was launched at Watches & Wonders 2024 with two watches, I thought it was possibly the most beautiful watch I’d seen at the show. It ultimately ranked highly in our Top 10 watches of that year list. I was, however, disappointed to see that at the time, it was a limited edition release. I couldn’t afford one anyway, but I was a little sad that so few would be able to appreciate the Toric Petite Seconde.
These two new Toric Petite Seconde models do not appear to be limited-edition models this time around, and whether or not you can afford one, I urge you to try one on if you get the chance. I will draw on some of my hands-on experience here, as the new watches don’t differ significantly from the limited edition pieces from 2024.
Both watches are presented in cases measuring 40.6mm x 8.6mm, which is quite a precise size for watchmaking, but it works. When paired with a supple alligator leather strap, grey for the platinum watch or sand gold for the gold watch, each Toric Petite Seconde wears comfortably. Water resistance is 30m, because these are classic dress watches, not dressy/sporty pieces. Their dials are similarly sparse, with hand-applied graining being the finish applied to their surfaces.If you opt for the platinum version, you’re getting a dial finished in a colour that Parmigiani Fleurier calls ‘Golden Hour’, along with 18k gold hands and rhodium-plated applied markers. If the 18k rose gold version is more your style, you get a dial colour called ‘Dune’, which is slightly darker than ‘Golden Hour’ from what I can see, the markers and hands are 18k rose gold with no extra plating.
Inside both of these watches is the hand-wound calibre PF780. Having seen this calibre in the limited edition Toric Petite Seconde models from last year, and with the Toric Quantième Perpetuel from this year looking almost identical despite the extra functions, I can confidently say that this is a fantastic-looking movement. If you’re new to the world of horology and wondering why people like me get excited about mechanical watches, the quality of the decoration and finishing on calibres like the PF780 in these watches is a significant reason. To know that someone’s spent time poring over the tiniest of details which you probably can’t see without a magnifier, to know that someone cares as much as they do about the function and looks of the 157 pieces in it… It’s special.
As for the decoration style, it’s called Côtes de Fleurier. There are also plenty of hand-bevelled edges to the movement plates, which are made of 18k gold, and the stainless steel bridges aren’t excluded from the finishing treatment either. The Parmigiani Fleurier logo is also present here, as is Michel Parmigiani’s signature by the barrels. The total power reserve of this hand-wound movement is 60 hours, and it beats at 4Hz.
If you’ve made it this far, you won’t be surprised to know that I’m particularly fond of these watches. I think they’re some of the prettiest and classiest time-only dress watches you can get. Although some of the quirkiness of the Parmigiani Fleurier is gone, I can’t help but be excited about the upcoming models, which are sure to appeal to nearly everyone. The price of one of these in platinum is $50,800, and in 18k rose gold is $50,400.
