BY HARLAN CHAPMAN-GREEN
We recently covered a new version of a super cool watch from HYT, the Conical Tourbillon Panda watch. Reading through the comments on that article, it seems that our audience generally liked this release. Sure, there was the odd ‘expensive wind-up toy’ type thing, and the age-old question of “Does this perform better than my (electronic) watch?” The answer is, of course, a resounding no. But, it’s significantly bigger, more complicated and way more delicate, and it’s also harder to read! Okay, I’ll stop that now, let’s take a closer look.
It’s important to note, as I’ve mentioned in my previous article, that HYT’s watches, while not tremendously accurate, are precision pieces with no expenses spared in their execution. The use of liquid to tell the time may not present the most accurate view, but it’s a feat of engineering that demands a lot of power from some very tiny pieces.
So, forget chronometric accuracy and instead focus on what’s in front of you. In this case, it’s a 48.00mm x 25.15mm 5N gold case with DLC-treated titanium components. The gold has been set with 175 diamonds using a technique called “snow setting.” This type of diamond setting continues to the dial, which has no fewer than 400 snow-set diamonds set above 3D numerals.
The time is displayed using the borosilicate capillary tube around the inside of the numerals. The black liquid is forced around via two metal bellows in the movement. The hours are displayed via a triangular marker orbiting the centre of the dial. White SuperLumiNova also helps us read this thing in the dark.
At the heart of the dial is the calibre 701-TC, a tourbillon that provides regulation for around 40 hours. The beat rate of the balance wheel is a steady 3Hz. As with the previous watch we examined, the tourbillon is surrounded by three diamonds that move in a captivating “chaotic animation”, a unique feature that HYT has mastered. This is a testament to their ability to push boundaries and make a statement with their watches.
Presented on a black rubber strap, this one-off example shows that HYT is willing to go to great lengths to redesign its watches as it (and its customers) see fit. This particular piece cost CHF490,000 before taxes, but it’s likely sold now. Still, it’s interesting to see what’s happening in the horology world around us. I wonder if they take commissions?
