By Osheen Arakelian
Celebrating a pure, rare and eternal material, the Collection Excellence Platine by Vacheron Constantin welcomes two new models that will delight all those with a taste for pure, understated dials, as well as keen long-distance travellers. With that we introduce you to the Traditionelle Day-Date and Power Reserve Collection Excellence Platine and the very impressive Traditionelle World Time Collection Excellence Platine.
These pieces add to the already beautiful collection that Vacheron Constantin has introduced to their Collection Excellence Platine and maintain the same unique features that watch connoisseurs love about the range. The knurled motif around the screw-down back with sapphire crystal, slender bezel, facetted trapeze-shaped hour-markers – double at 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock – “dauphine” hands, a dial in various tones and case middle with straight, clear-cut lines. All these features are ever present in these wonderful timepieces and hold true to their historical brothers and sisters.
Firstly let’s take a look at the Traditionelle Day-Date and Power Reserve. Weighing in at 39.9mm in diameter the beautifully presented piece is finished in 950 platinum. The dial is also given the platinum treatment with a 950 platinum finished dial that has been sandblasted using only the finest of grains to ensure that the dial is beautifully presented. An almost unnoticeable and discreet “Pt 950” inscription has also been incorporated into the face between 4 and 5 o’clock. The face is kept clean and uncluttered incorporating only the most essential time reading indicators. This includes the hours, minutes and seconds but also the day, date and power reserve indicator (an essential feature for some of us who like to keep track of our reserves).
At the centre of this beautiful piece is the Vacheron Constantin Calibre 2475 mechanical self-winding movement that is finished in the same meticulous and unmistakable Vacheron Constantin finish. Beveled and rhodium bridges, the Cotes de Geneve and a circular grained mainplate make up the detailing on the movement all visible through a crystal caseback.
Next we have the Traditionelle World Time that embodies a complication inextricably bound up with the history of the Genève-based Manufacturer. What is this complication we speak of? The World Time function of course! That was introduced in 1932, which enabled the simultaneous reading of the time in 31 cities across the world at any time of the day. How this is accomplished is by the ingenious Caliber 2460 WT self-winding mechanical movement developed entirely by Vacheron Constantin whereby the wristwatch is able to drive indications corresponding to the world’s 37 time zones – including those offset from Universal Coordinated Time (UTC) by a half-hour or a quarter-hour. Not only that but it also displays day/night cycles using a central globe that features in the centre of the face.
The case is also 39.9mm in diameter and finished in the same platinum material as the Day-Date but the face is where all this magic is displayed and consists of three parts: a sapphire dial with a day/night shading as well as an engraved and inked 24-hour indication; a 950 platinum dial with a “Lambert projector” type map; and a metal chapter ring. Although it sounds very complicated it’s quite simple to use and adjust, which is done via a single crown which simplifies the task of changing the time regardless of where you are.
Both timepieces are limited to only 100 pieces and will be on display at the upcoming Watches&Wonders event in Hong Kong. For more info, please visit vacheron-constantin.com & watchesandwonders.com
Specifications
TRADITIONNELLE DAY-DATE AND POWER RESERVE COLLECTION EXCELLENCE PLATINE
Reference 85290/000P-9947 Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece
- Caliber 2475 SC Developped and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
- Mechanical, self-winding 2 mm (11’’’1⁄2) diameter 5.7 mm thick Approximately 40 hours of power reserve 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)
- 264 components 27 jewels
- Indications Hours Minutes
- Day of the week Date Power reserve
- Case Platinum 950 5 mm diameter, 10.65 mm thick
- Transparent sapphire crystal caseback Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 meters)
- Dial Platinum 950, sand-blasted finishing “Pt950” hallmark between 4 and 5 o’clock
- Black painted indications
- Strap Dark blue Mississippiensis alligator leather, hand-stitched with platinum 950 and silk, saddle-finish, large square scales
- Clasp Triple-blade folding clasp in platinum 950 Polished half Maltese cross-shaped
- Limited edition of 100 individually numbered pieces “N°X/100” engraved on caseback
TRADITIONNELLE WORLD TIME COLLECTION EXCELLENCE PLATINE
Reference 86060/000P-9979 Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece
- Caliber 2460 WT Developped and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
- Mechanical, self-winding 60 mm (11’’’ 1⁄4 ) diameter 7.55 mm thick Approximately 40 hours of power reserve 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour) 255 components 27 jewels
- Indications Hours Minutes
- Center seconds World time indication with day/night zone (37 time zones)
- Case Platinum 950 50 mm diameter, 11.62 mm thick
- Transparent sapphire crystal caseback Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 meters)
- Dial Made of 3 parts:
- – 1 disc in sapphire with gradient day/night indication in the center, 24-hour indication inked / engraved
- – 1 disc in platinum 950 with hand-polished embossed “Lambert Projection” type map and transferred cities names
- – 1 external ring in platinum 950 with transferred minute- track and 18K gold applied hour-makers. “Pt950” hallmark between 4 and 5 o’clock
- Strap Dark blue Mississippiensis alligator leather, hand-stitched with platinum 950 and silk, saddle-finish, large square scales
- Clasp Triple-blade folding clasp in platinum 950 Polished half Maltese cross-shaped
- Limited edition of 100 pieces “N°X/100” engraved on caseback
Osheen Arakelian – Contributing Editor
Drawing on a lifelong love of horology and a more recent introduction to appreciation of fine whisky, Osheen brought the two together with watch & whisky. He is proprietor of the site, which covers everything related to watches and whisky. In between completing a degree in commercial law and supporting a rich social life, he is out and about attending all the latest watch and whisky events Sydney has to offer. His passion has also taken him around Australia attending a number of events and he hopes to continue his career in the watch industry on a more serious level after he graduates. Read his articles here.
