By Harlan Chapman-Green
The last watch I looked at which was destined to go to the charitable watch auction Only Watch 2015 was the Patek Philippe Grand Complication 5016A watch in steel. Now here’s another super high-end watch made of a metal that isn’t used in the normal range.
My favourite chronograph watch is the Type XXI. I’ve worn them in the past and their size is perfect for my wrist. They also look gorgeous under the right lighting and the chronograph functions beautifully with smooth, easy to depress pushers and a solid screw down crown. But that watch was in steel. This new version is made of platinum.
If you look hard at it, it would be hard to spot the differences between the standard watch and this platinum version, without picking the watch up that is. The main distinctions are the aged looking lume indices and hands as well as the vintage leather strap that wraps around the wrist of the lucky wearer. it’s a watch that has been reproduced in a precious metal, yet the design isn’t gaudy in the slightest. The brushed bezel contrasts supremely well to the polished lugs and pushers, the depth of the watch, however, comes from the all around coin edging. The coin edging is a Breguet hallmark, much in the same way that the fluted bezel is a hallmark on the Rolex DateJust, however it’s all done by hand and is a fantastic addition to every Breguet watch.
The Type XXI is presented in a 42mm diagonal case which is perfect for most wrist sizes. The Type XXI is the middle member of the XX range, featuring a flyback chronograph movement with the minute hand positioned underneath the chronograph seconds hand on the dial. This makes an allowance for a 24-hour chronograph sub-dial as well. The Type XX watch is a 39mm watch which has a 12-hour chronograph on it and comes with or without the date window. The Type XXII is a 44mm diagonal watch that uses Breguet’s new high-beat 10Hz technology, making it one of the two most accurate mechanical wristwatches around (the other being the Breguet Classique Chronométrie 7727 watch which I have been lucky enough to wear for a bit) and is also a 24hr flyback chronograph.
I was a little surprised to see this model being offered for Only Watch 2015, I would’ve expected to see the Tradition 7077 or 7087 watches instead. However, it’s certainly a welcome piece and will no doubt fetch a lot of money which will go towards Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy, the auction itself will take place on the 7th of November.
For more info, please visit breguet.com
HARLAN CHAPMAN-GREEN – CONTRIBUTING EDITOR
A keen bass guitar player, Harlan enjoys all the perks modern watchmaking technologies the industry has to offer. Although you might catch him sampling Omegas or the Rolex, Harlan loves all things Haute Horology, with his three favourite brands being Breguet, A.Lange & Söhne and Vacheron Constantin. He hopes to study timekeeping more in depth someday and will never be able to thank his father enough for introducing him to the industry. Read his articles here.
