BY ERIK SLAVEN
If you’re a fan of Glashütte Original, you certainly know the classic PanoMatic dial and PanoMaticLunar variant. The hours and minutes are offset in a sub-dial at left with the seconds underneath, while the Panorama Date and moonphase complications occupy the right. It’s clean, legible and unmistakably GO, and the brand is now introducing two annual calendar models with a new in-house automatic. Although the duo share the same layout, they’re aesthetically very different, providing both a traditional and futuristic take on the style. The familiar dial didn’t require an overhaul as the additional months are cleverly squeezed along the bottom right, maintaining the look of prior models.
Unlike a standard calendar complication, annual calendars automatically adjust for 30 and 31 days during the year, only requiring an annual adjustment on March 1st (hence the name). The more advanced perpetual calendar adjusts for February’s shortened month on its own, including leap years. Looking at the new dials, the retrograde 12-month window is contained within a narrow arch from 6 to 3 o’clock, barely creating a disruption. At left sits the big date complication (Panorama Date) and the moonphase is displayed at an angle at 2 o’clock. The hours and minutes are in the familiar oversized sub-dial at left with the seconds sub-dial overlapping at the bottom half.
The two models are differentiated by metals and style, with one having a conventional silver opaline dial and red gold applied indices and hands, and the other having an open-worked galvanic black dial with white gold applied indices. The dial side of the latter movement is decorated with blued screws and Côtes de Genève. The hour and minute hands on both have Super-LumiNova and are blued on the black dial. The silver dial is housed in a 5N red gold case, while the black dial has a platinum case and is limited to 150 pieces (the gold model is part of the regular collection). Both cases are 42mm in diameter and 12.4mm thick, and have sapphire crystals front and back. Water resistance is rated at 50 meters, so a dunk in the pool is fine, but avoid diving with these (not that you would). Straps are alligator with a matte nubuck finish and come in black for the platinum case and brown for the gold.
Powering the new PanoMaticCalendar is the latest in-house Caliber 92 with an oversized 21k gold micro-rotor. It’s certainly complex, yet easy to operate by the wearer. All but the moonphase is set by the crown, with that complication controlled by a recessed pusher on the right side. The moonphase is also accurate to one day every 122 years. The months are displayed via a tinted sapphire window with only the numerals clear. A ring underneath with four equally separated dark or light points highlights the proper month, completing a full revolution every four years. So, it’s technically not a retrograde action as a new point on the disc simply starts at January as the old one leaves December. A month wheel is used for the calendar mechanism with a cam disc at the top completing a single revolution per year. An irregular rim controls the 30th or 31st day with indentations used for the 31st. Once the full revolution happens, it’s your turn to make an adjustment as February ends (a very small price to pay). A tooth on the underside of the wheel works with a gear chain to advance the month in the arched display. Decorations vary slightly (Côtes de Genève and blued screws, along with additional hand finishing) as the platinum model is black rhodium plated, while the gold model has standard rhodium plating. Interestingly, the gold model has perlage on the dial side (concealed by the silver dial), while the platinum skeletonized model has Côtes de Genève. Both have 53 jewels, beat at 4Hz with a 100-hour power reserve. There’s also a durable, anti-magnetic silicon balance spring.
The red gold PanoMaticCalendar (ref. 1-92-09-02-05-02) retails for EUR 27,600, while the platinum limited edition (ref. 1-92-10-01-03-62) retails for EUR 40,400. Pricey, but these are in line with comparable, in-house luxury models with precious metals and multiple complications. Both are available now at boutiques and participating retailers.
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