BY HARLAN CHAPMAN-GREEN & JOVAN KRSTEVSKI
This year’s Watches & Wonders Geneva saw many creative new ideas. Honestly, it’s refreshing to see so many brands bringing stuff to the table. It also shows that Covid-19 didn’t affect the people working at the brands or stop them from being creative, given that the usual product cycle means that what we’re seeing now was likely designed when we were all shut away in our homes. Some watches were obvious standouts, and some required a little more thought and discussion, although, by discussion, we mean disagreeing over Facebook Messenger until one of us backs off. You know, the usual way people communicate these days. Anyway, here are WristReview’s favourite watches from this year’s show.
10. Tudor Black Bay GMT – Jovan
The Tudor Black Bay GMT is a standout timepiece with a functional GMT function for tracking multiple time zones. Its rotatable bezel features a unique blue and burgundy color scheme in a matte finish. The opaline dial option enhances its legibility. With a 41mm case and MT5652 COSC-certified movement, it stands apart from its siblings, and a nod to mid-century commercial aviation adds charm. I’m confident there isn’t another GMT with the same pedigree and I really like that it moves really well from casual to business casual outfits.
9. Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni PAM01348 – Harlan
The Radiomir, as some pointed out in the comments section of my article, can sometimes feel like the odd one out in the Panerai range. It doesn’t have their iconic locking crown, and most of the collection is very simple. And yet, simple watches are what Panerai does best, and the burnished PAM01348 was the very best for me. The watch is 45mm across, but it’s extremely wearable even by people with quite small wrists and is definitely worth checking out. The manually-wound movement is a great one, and the comfortable blue leather strap seals the deal. This one is definitely worth checking out, and it’s not a limited edition piece, either.
8. Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Collection Tentagraph: SLGC001 – Jovan
Grand Seiko’s Tentagraph mechanical chronograph, powered by the new Caliber 9SC5, has made its first appearance, securing #8 on our list. With a 72-hour power reserve and the longest-running 10-beat chronograph in the industry, the Tentagraph boasts a titanium case and bracelet, scratch-resistant ceramic bezel, and an Mt. Iwate-inspired dial pattern. Combining style, durability, and precision, the watch’s innovative design contributes to Grand Seiko’s Evolution 9 and its future.
7. Rolex Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 42 – Jovan
The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 42 was wowed at Watches & Wonders 2023 with its refreshed design. Constructed from lightweight RLX titanium, it features a unique satin finish, the advanced calibre 3235 movement, a black ceramic Cerachrom insert, and 100-meter water resistance. The watch boasts a Superlative Chronometer certification, and its elegant black dial makes it a standout nautical timepiece. Its history with the sailing world since the 1950s is embodied in its design.
6. Chopard Alpine Eagle XPS ref. 298623-3001 – Harlan
When Chopard introduced the Alpine Eagle, I was hoping for a watch that came with their L.U.C movement so we could cut through the state of affairs with stainless steel integrated bracelet watches and give watch fans something they can both lust over and have a hope of attaining one day. We got some great movements before in the Alpine Eagle, but really, the L.U.C calibre 96.40-L deserves to be in this watch with it’s classy micro-rotor and Poinçon de Genève finish level. The other option for this spot was the Angelus Chronodate again, which had some new versions for 2023, but that watch lacked any screw-down crown, and even the designer wasn’t happy with that. So, congratulations to Chopard for another win this year.
5. Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date – Jovan
The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date offers both luxury and adventure, earning it the fifth spot on our list. Its sunburst blue dial showcases a retrograde date and an accurate moon phase that requires correction every 122 years. The 41mm stainless steel case comes with interchangeable straps in steel bracelet, blue calfskin, and blue rubber. The watch’s sporty design and retrograde complication make it a standout addition to Vacheron Constantin’s collection.
4. Rolex 1908 – Harlan
The Rolex 1908 replaced the Cellini and gave a lot of collectors what they wanted from Rolex: a display caseback. Okay, so that caseback is on the back of a dress watch rather than the Submariner, but it’s a start and shows that Rolex is being open-minded. The 1908 impressed everyone who saw it at the show, and even more people looking online at the photos. The dial is classy and clean, and the watch is sensibly sized in either yellow or white gold with a comfy leather strap. It’s a dress watch, but it’s done the Rolex way which means it gets a bezel that’s both rounded and fluted and a next-generation in-house movement too.
3. IWC Schaffhausen’s Ingenieur Automatic 40 – Jovan
IWC Schaffhausen’s Ingenieur Automatic 40 was unveiled at Watches and Wonders in Geneva. The watch has a 32111 caliber movement with a 120-hour power reserve and soft-iron inner cases to protect against magnetic fields. The design takes inspiration from the 1970s Gérald Genta’s Ingenieur SL model, while the dial has a grid-like pattern and the bezel features functional screws. Available in three stainless steel references and one titanium reference, the watch is finished with an elaborately finished butterfly folding clasp. The only reason this didn’t get higher is that we can’t understand why it’s this expensive. Other than that, there’s nothing wrong here.
2 – A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Chronograph – Harlan
This year, A. Lange & Söhne unveiled their first sporty chronograph watch, taking the Odysseus into the bigger leagues with their unique and beautiful chronograph. Keeping the watch’s form factor similar to the previous Odysseus models was imperative for the Saxon brand, and clever touches were used to make sure that happened. Touches such as the crown, which controls what the pushers do. In regular mode with the crown at its regular position, the pushers control the chronograph. When the crown is pulled out to the first position, the pushers control the day and date indications like on the regular Odysseus models. Also, the self winding calibre L156.1 features a column wheel chronograph with vertical clutch, designed from the ground up for the Odysseus. Low production stifled this one’s rise, but we hope to get a review model soon.
1 – Zenith Pilot Big Date Flyback ref. 03.4000.3652/21.I001 – Harlan
Our favourite watch from this year’s show was Zenith’s new Pilot Big Date Flyback chronograph watch. Zenith had its work cut out with this one as we really liked the outgoing Pilot, it had a historically-inspired style. With that said, it was huge and quite a specific style; you either liked it or you didn’t. This new Pilot, which is a little more focused on the people sitting behind the pilots than before, still features a legible dial and plenty of charm, but it’s also in a more usable case. Inside it is a new El Primero calibre 3652. We loved how Zenith paid attention to the smaller details with this movement, such as making the big date sound like the Flipboard displays in airports and train stations when it clicks over. Or, the pushers for the chronograph, which were about as smooth as you could wish for, requiring only 500g of pressure to interact with. The black ceramic case is excellent, but the stainless steel does it for me.
