BY HARLAN CHAPMAN-GREEN
2023 sees the return of Only Watch, the bi-annual luxury watch auction with a difference. Every other year, 50 or so watchmakers submit a unique piece for auction at Christie’s in Geneva, the funds raised by the auction go to supporting the research into Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy (DMD). DMD is regarded as one of the most deadly forms of muscular dystrophy, reducing a person’s expected lifespan by over half, and it’s also one of the most common forms around.
Andersen Genève is a firm favourite of Only Watch auctions. In fact, an Andersen Genève watch was the first piece to be sold at an Only Watch auction at their debut in 2005 and they’re returned ever since. Andersen Genève’s watch at the 2021 auction exceeded its expected estimated sale price, and we expect this one to do the same if we’re honest.
The dial of the Jumping Hours is very unusual because it’s almost entirely blank. There’s the manufacturer’s name at the top, a large window showing the current hours below that, and what looks to be a running seconds at 6 o’clock to remind you that you did actually buy a functioning wristwatch. In fact, that hand on the subdial is the minute hand (wouldn’t be a useful watch without it). The pink gold hand sits atop a dial made of jade stone which has been cut to be just 0.4mm thick with a flawless finish. Below that is the self-winding F. Piguet calibre 11.50 with a 72-hour power reserve and a gold rotor. Even the movement’s been reworked to be exceptional to look at.
It’s all wrapped up in a 38mm x 9.22mm platinum case which has a pink gold crown. The estimate for this watch is between CHF40,000 and CHF50,000 but, let’s be real, it’s difficult to see how this will sell for less than CHF100,000.
