BY HARLAN CHAPMAN-GREEN
The Royal Oak is Audemars Piguet’s halo model, their top dog. It’s at least 80% of their collection at this point. While it would seem that the Royal Oak is Audemars Piguet’s one trick pony, but that’s not true. The number of different models that Audemars Piguet has made the Royal Oak into demonstrates its versatility. The newest model also demonstrates Audemars Piguet’s growing technical abilities.
The new Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin ref 16202XT.OO.1240XT.01 is a combination of a classical dress watch and a sporty one, but you know that already. The bracelet and case are a mixture of brushing and polishing, and the quality of Audemars Piguet’s finishing work means that even the matte-looking components catch the light in a dazzling way.
However, this watch will surely catch the light for more than just its finishing. The case is made of a combination of titanium and something called Bulk Metallic Glass. You may remember that BMG is currently being used to good effect by Panerai and, more recently, IWC. BMG is hard to explain. It is a mixture of different metals which become an alloy that has glass-like qualities. Audemars Piguet, at great expense, no doubt, developed its own blend of BMG using palladium, which they say is exceptionally resistant to corrosion. On the “Jumbo”, the bracelet links and the bezel are made of BMG, while the rest of the case, bracelet and clasp are titanium. Water resistance is 50m.
Within that case is a “smoked burgundy” dial, which features a gorgeous red colouration that fades to black at the edges. Pink gold hands point to applied pink gold hour markers, and there is an applied AP logo in true fashion, although the characteristic tapisserie guilloché found on the Royal Oak is missing here. I like it, it allows the gradient to stand out.
Powering the watch is the in-house-made calibre 7121, initially developed for the 50th anniversary of the Royal Oak models. It has a 4Hz beat rate and 55-hour power reserve. In this watch it also comes with a classy golden rotor which matches the golden bridges. The case is only 8.1mm thick, luckily, this movement is only 3.2mm thick so it squeezes in without issue.
Audemars Piguet hasn’t indicated that this is a limited edition piece but will only sell you one upon request. Naturally, that also means the price is given upon request.
