BY HARLAN CHAPMAN-GREEN
The theme for this year’s Only Watch auction seems to be all the colours of the rainbow, which is bound to tip off a small but unbearably vocal group in particular. Usually, Only Watch auctions will have one colour as a main theme, with watchmakers using that colour in their watch if they want to. The rainbow colours have made for some of the most distinctive watches of the auction in its history, and Bell & Ross’ latest submission is one of the wilder ones. For the 9th edition of Only Watch (2021’s auction), Bell & Ross introduced the sapphire crystal BR 01 Cyber Skull. For 2023, we get the BR 03 Cyber Rainbow.
It seems like the folks at Bell & Ross have taken all the usual tropes of watchmaking and thrown them out the window. The Cyber Rainbow has a case measuring 42mm x 43.7mm which is constructed of grade 5 titanium that’s been DLC-coated black. Yes, all black, on the sides and the back at least, because the front has had a paint factory explode onto it. The colours are varnished pieces which are crafted with a secret formula to make them blend with the case properly.
That colour explosion also applies to the bridges of the skeletonised BR-Cal.383 which is bespoke for this piece. It’s self-winding thanks to a colour-decorated rotor around the back. The power reserve of this movement is 48 hours which, given that there isn’t the space to squeeze extra barrels for a longer one, isn’t bad.
The watch comes on a bespoke rubber strap which has the same colour theme, making it look like this watch has broken through a few dimensions on its way to us, or quite possibly an ELO album cover. The auction estimate is between 45,000 and 55,000 CHF, but Bell & Ross’ bespoke range of high-level watches is very sought after. The 2021 auction watch sold for double its estimate, so this is likely to do the same.
