BY ERIK SLAVEN
Glashütte Original definitely does its own thing and is well known for dials with asymmetrical arrangements and advanced complications. Look no further than the PanoMaticLunar or Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar. The 1970s-inspired Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date models have already reached an iconic status and include many dial colors such as yellow, gradient green and grey. The latest sunray-brushed dark blue dial might be the classiest yet with an elegant maturity. A retro design merges with modern sophistication to make this one of the most desirable models in the German brand’s portfolio.
Glashütte Original is among a relatively short list of brands producing dials in-house and the new blue dial is made via a complicated galvanization process that provides a metallic, tone shifting aesthetic. The hour and minute hands are rhodium plated with Super-LumiNova inserts, while the twin sub-dials at 3 and 9 o’clock have a subtle snailed pattern for contrast. The small seconds at 9 o’clock shares the sub-dial with a slick power reserve indicator at the top left. A big date complication sits at 6 o’clock, a familiar feature for the brand, and everything is frame by applied indices and an outermost seconds track. Of course, this is a chronograph (hence the name) and things are a bit atypical in Glashütte Original style. A conventional 30-minute counter sits at 3 o’clock, but the 12-hour counter below 12 o’clock is a window displaying three Arabic numerals at a time with half hour markers. Stylish and certainly unique.
The stainless steel tonneau-shaped case is 40mm x 40mm with a thickness of 14.1mm. I think it really hits the sweet spot for a contemporary sports watch. The bezel is a rounded square and this style is referred to as a TV-screen watch, which was all the rage in the 1970s. There’s a combination of brushed and polished elements, and the flat angled pushers at 2 and 4 o’clock extend from the crown guards for a modern twist. The case has a sporty integrated design with several strap options available – blue Louisiana alligator leather, grey-brown calfskin nubuck leather, black rubber (all three with butterfly clasps) or an integrated stainless steel bracelet with polished center links. Water resistance is rated at 100 meters.
The heart of the watch is the brand’s in-house Caliber 37-02 automatic. It’s a serious chronograph movement with a column-wheel and flyback function, and includes a big date complication, power reserve indicator, chronograph stop seconds, 30-minute counter and 12-hour counter. It has 65 jewels, beats at 4Hz with a power reserve of 70 hours. Seen from the sapphire exhibition case back, it’s decorated with Côtes de Genève (Glashütte stripes), blued screws, beveled and polished edges, and an open worked rotor. Chronograph movements are always cool and this is among the best looking at any price. Simply an incredible design and very well finished.
The new Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date with dark blue dial starts at EUR 13,200 and is now available as a standard, non-limited piece.
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