BY HARLAN CHAPMAN-GREEN
Diving watches have always been a symbol of adventure and exploration. With their rugged construction and water-resistant design, these timepieces are trusted companions for underwater adventures. But modern diving watches also need to appeal to buyers who aren’t so interested in exploring the ocean’s depths, meaning modern diving watches have to be professional tools and also look good. Among the many reputable watchmakers, Glashütte Original has made a name for itself in the world of diving watches. Known for their precision engineering and elegant aesthetics, Glashütte Original’s diving timepieces seamlessly blend form and function. The SeaQ watches are the Saxon brand’s range of professional diving instruments, and Jovan and I have chosen what we think are the best of the best.
En vogue – SeaQ Panorama Date ref. 1-36-13-07-83-70
It’s no secret that green is the colour of the moment in the watchmaking world, so it’s no surprise that the SeaQ model is at the forefront of this green revolution. Jovan’s first choice sits proudly at 43.20mm x 15.65mm on a brushed/polished stainless steel bracelet (other straps are available). Despite its luxurious appearance thanks to high-end brushing and polishing techniques, this professional diving watch exceeds both ISO 6425 standards and Germany’s DIN 8306 requirement. It also has a case suited for diving up to 300m below the surface. The reed green dial and ceramic bezel are straightforward to read and draw the eye.
Historically inspired – SeaQ 1-39-11-10-90-34
Anywhere between 39mm and 40mm is about the right diameter for most people’s wrists; this model really should go by the nickname Goldilocks thanks to its 39.5mm x 12.15mm sizing, which most will undoubtedly say is ‘just right’. This model takes inspiration from Glashütte Original’s first diving watch, the Spezimatic Type PR TS 200, which the brand introduced in 1969. However, the two-tone case with a blue ceramic bezel and a blue dial embraces modernity while offering 200m of water resistance. Inside this modern case is the in-house-made calibre 39-11. It comes with features such as a 4Hz beat rate and a 40-hour power reserve, but it also features traditional watchmaking touches such as fine finishing and polishing, a heavy metal winding rotor and a three-quarter plate, which is traditional for the Glashütte watchmaking region. This watch comes on either a blue fabric scrap or a black rubber one with unique texturing.
It’s complicated – SeaQ Chronograph 1-37-23-02-81-70
The SeaQ model is not just a standalone timepiece but a foundation for future innovations. Imagine a tourbillon diving watch or a perpetual calendar watch that’s as accurate at 300m below as it is on the surface. While we wait for these possibilities, we have the SeaQ Chronograph, featuring a 30-minute flyback chronograph and a Panorama Date window. The elegantly-finished calibre 37-23 provides this watch with its complication, and it features all the accoutrements one would expect from a luxury watchmaker like Glashütte Original such as fine bevelling and polishing of its components, a silicone hairspring and a column wheel mechanism for precise control over the chronograph. It also has a long 70-hour power reserve. This is all wrapped up in a luxuriously finished stainless steel case measuring 43.20mm x 16.95mm, and it can be optioned with a range of fabric and rubber straps or a high-quality stainless steel bracelet.
Tried and tested – SeaQ Panorama Date 1-36-13-02-81-34
The last of the SeaQ models we’re looking at today is one I’ve reviewed before but wanted to discuss again. The SeaQ Panorama Date in blue, specifically with a fabric strap, is a fantastic diving watch. It has the same measurements as the green watch above, measuring 43.20mm x 15.65mm with 300m of water resistance. The blue colour of the ceramic bezel and the fine sunray finish on the dial look impressive and unique. It shows that clever usage of colours makes a difference even if the underlying watch is the same. Inside this watch, as with the green model, is the self-winding calibre 36-13, a modern movement made in-house by Glashütte Original. Silicone components and a 4Hz beat rate mean this movement maintains a high level of accuracy over its long 100-hour power reserve, but high levels of finishing and an open caseback make it something you’ll want to stare at for ages. I like the grey fabric strap, but other straps are available, including fabric, rubber, or a stainless steel bracelet. Like all the bracelets available on the SeaQ models, it has a fine adjustment system for extra usability.
In conclusion, Glashütte Original’s SeaQ collection offers a range of professional diving instruments that seamlessly blend form and function. From the classy green SeaQ Panorama Date to the historic SeaQ updated with a two-tone twist and the complicated SeaQ Chronograph, each timepiece showcases precision engineering and elegant aesthetics. The familiar blue SeaQ Panorama Date is also a fantastic diving watch. With their reliable performance, water resistance, and thoughtful design, these timepieces are ideal companions for underwater adventures and everyday wear. Whether it’s the captivating green model, the sophisticated two-tone case with a blue dial, or the other models we haven’t written about, Glashütte Original’s SeaQ watches cater to divers and watch enthusiasts alike, making them a noteworthy addition to any collection.
