BY HARLAN CHAPMAN-GREEN
Watches & Wonders Geneva wouldn’t be the same without Cartier, not least because they appear to have the most floorspace at Palexpo. Seriously, they’re the only brand there with two booths, one of which is as gigantic as the other leading brands by itself. They also had lots of novelties so we’ll attempt to cover them all.
Tank Louis Cartier Large
For 2025 Cartier’s classic Tank is in large form in two colours. The Tank Louis Cartier Large comes in either 18k yellow gold with a flinqué dial, a classic design, or in 18k rose gold with the flinqué dial. Both watches come with the usual accoutrements such as a cabochon-topped crown and a luxurious leather strap, matte grey on the yellow gold version and matte brown on the rose gold. The cases measure 38.1mm x 27.75mm x 8.18mm and are 30m water-resistant. Inside these watches is the self-winding calibre 1899 MC with a 4Hz beat rate and a power reserve of around 36-40 hours. Yes watch nerds, I did ask, the 1899 MC is a round movement rather than rectangular, but you can’t see it in there anyway.
Sadly these watches weren’t available for the photoshoot, but I did get to go hands-on and can tell you they’re super comfy and classy watches. The price is $14,900.
Privé Tank à Guichets
Another model that was very popular at the show, which sadly meant we couldn’t get photos of it, but we did go hands-on with them as well. 2025 was the year of many watches with subtle designs like these watches. The time is only viewable through the windows on the front of the case, and even then they only show you the hours and minutes. I’ll say, they are a little hard to read at a glance, but once they’re in focus they’re not too bad. Four versions are on offer; three are vertically oriented and in 18k yellow gold, 18k rose gold and 950 platinum, and there’s also a horizontal model, which is also in 950 platinum.
All the watches measure 37.6mm x 24.8 mm x 6.0mm and come on leather straps but, importantly, are not water-resistant watches. Inside them is the manually-wound calibre 9755 MC, which is controlled by the crown located at the top of the watch; this placement makes the watches a little fiddly to use, in my view. The prices in USD are available upon request (sorry, I can’t find them in USD)
Panthère de Cartier
So the Panthère de Cartier line got some new additions to it for 2025 and they’re all covered in jewels. There’s a really tiny version measuring 25mm x 20mm x 6mm and that’s made in 18k rose gold semi-paved with 175 brilliant-cut diamonds. Then there are two slightly larger watches, one 18k yellow gold and one 18k rose gold measuring 30.30mm x 22.00mm x 6.05mm, and they’re paved with 179 brilliant-cut diamonds. There’s also a larger version in 18k yellow gold measuring 36.5 mm x 26.7mm x 6.8 mm, and that one has 187 brilliant-cut diamonds. They’re all 30m water-resistant and feature quartz movements in them. The price ranges from $35,100 for the smallest watch to $54,000 for the largest.
Finally, there’s the version you’re seeing in the pictures which Cartier describes as being somewhere between a zebra and a tiger with its decoration. Atop an 18k rose gold case measuring 36.5 mm x 26.7 mm x 6.8mm sit 390 brilliant-cut diamonds, spessarites, and two different lacquers to give a unique look. The dial has a further 145 brilliant-cut diamonds on it. This one’s also 30m water resistant, which is handy. This one’s not going on sale just yet, so no price has been given.
Panthère Bangle jewellery watch
Next up are two watches featuring Cartier’s iconic big cat, the panther. Unlike the watches above, this one is more jewellery piece with a watch in it rather than a watch with jewellery on. The watch is available to fit wrists ranging from 150mm to 170mm and, surprisingly, is 30m water resistant. To put it on, you twist the bracelet in half, and it swings away, allowing you to clamp it back on; it’s a beautifully smooth action to do, and it’s weighted perfectly.
You can tell someone cared. The watch is available in two models: an 18k yellow-gold watch set with 23 brilliant-cut diamonds and an 18k white-gold version (as pictured) set with 1103 brilliant-cut diamonds. Price upon request.
Tressage
The last watch we’re looking at today is perhaps the most unusual-looking of the bunch. The Tressage uses twists of gold, anointed with diamonds in some versions, in a design that is uniquely Cartier. Reading it’s not the easiest, but it can be done. A quartz movement sits inside all models, and they all measure 56.2mm x 25.7mm x 11.5mm. Strangely, they all have 30m of water resistance as well.
The version you’re looking at in the photos is the most subtle. Alright, it’s a big chunk of 18k yellow gold, but it’s subtler than the rest. It costs $40,000. There’s also the 18k yellow gold and white gold version set with 466 brilliant-cut diamonds, which costs $75,500. In 18k white gold with 916 brilliant-cut diamonds, it costs $122,000. Finally, in 18k white gold set with 570 brilliant-cut diamonds and 330 sapphires, it costs $134,000.
As you’d expect, there are more watches coming later in the year, but we can’t tell you any more than that for now. Which of these is your favourite? Tell us in the comments!
