BY HARLAN CHAPMAN-GREEN
I’ve gotten into a habit over these last few years whereby when I plan our timetable of all the exhibitors at Watches & Wonders Geneva, I make Parmigiani Fleurier the last one we visit. Their booth is relaxing, they have some great champagne in their bar and the novelties, of course, are fantastic. Here are their latest watches we got hands-on with.
Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante
The first watch is a continuation of the GMT Rattrapante introduced in 2022, and it now comes with a ‘Verzasca Green’ dial. In usual Parmigiani Fleurier fashion, the watch’s dial is super clean. The pusher at 8 O’clock on the case advances the hour hand forwards by one hour, revealing the gold hand which stays to represent the home timezone. When you’re done, using the pusher in the crown causes the GMT hand to flick back to the home timezone from wherever it is on the dial.
This is made possible by the self-winding calibre PF051 inside, which has a 3Hz beat rate and a 45-hour power reserve. Presented in a steel and 950 platinum case measuring 40.0mm x 10.7mm, this watch costs CHF28,700.
Tonda PF Chronograph
There is also the attractive Tonda PF Chronograph now with a ‘Mineral Blue’ dial. The omission of the date function keeps this watch clean and symmetrical. The stainless steel and 950 platinum case of this watch measures 40.00mm x 12.72mm and offers 100m of water resistance making this as practical as it is attractive to look at.
It’s not all about the looks, though, the self-winding calibre PF070-COSC is a certified chronometer running at 5Hz for 65 hours. The price of this one is CHF31,500.
Tonda PF Sport Chronograph
New for 2025 is the Tonda Sport Chronograph, and it comes in two colours, which are ‘Milano Blue’ (as seen here) and ‘London Grey’. The 42.5mm x 13.3mm case is the first ever on a wristwatch to be made of Cermet. Cermet is a mix of ceramic and metal and can be both hard like ceramic and able to resist dents like metal, according to this Wikipedia article I’m reading, anyway. Parmigiani Fleurier says a whole day is needed to put together the 72 parts of the case, which incidentally is made for them by a specialist company in South Korea.
Inside the sporty case is the self-winding calibre PF070-CSND, which is an in-house chronometer movement running at 5Hz for a total of 65 hours.
Tonda PF Skeleton
If you’d like something mechanically simpler than the chronograph but with more happening on the dial side the new Tonda PF Skeleton in ‘Slate Green’ could well be the watch for you. Skeletonising a watch allows you to see so much more of the internals, but it presents extra difficulty when being made, as every single component must be functional and also flawlessly finished so that the wearer can enjoy it.
A tall order, but the finishing of the calibre PF777 doesn’t disappoint. It beats at 4Hz for 60 hours and is a joy to look at on the wrist or up close through a loupe. With its steel and 950 platinum case measuring 40.0mm x 8.5mm, this watch costs CHF65,000, and most of that price premium will be down to the time needed to develop and finish that movement.
Toric Quantième Perpetuel
Perhaps my favourite watch of all their new ones is the Toric Quantième Perpetuel which builds on the revised Toric model which was introduced in 2024. There are two versions of this watch on sale, there’s the 18k rose gold version with a ‘Golden Hour’ dial and the 950 platinum version with a ‘Morning Blue’ dial, both cases measure 40.6mm x 10.9mm. The Toric Quantiéme Perpetuel displays everything you need to know from a calendar function at a glance in the two offset subdials.
The watch omits the moonphase, which I know some readers will be happy about, in favour of a clean design which is a worthy follow-up to last year’s pieces. Inside the new watches is the impeccably-finished and manually wound calibre PF733.
Made of 18k rose gold, this movement offers views of the mainspring barrels and the balance wheel, the rest is obscured behind those gold plates finished with a Côtes de Fleurier design and Michel Parmigiani’s engraved signature. The movements run at 4Hz for 60 hours.
In rose gold one of these costs CHF85,000, and in platinum, it’s CHF92,000. Both watches come with an incredibly supple alligator leather strap.
Parmigiani Fleurier’s 2025 novelties show they’re continuing to be playful and thoughtful with their designs, and their watches are contemporary and incredibly comfortable to wear. We think they’d make a great addition to any collection.
