BY HARLAN CHAPMAN-GREEN
Watches & Wonders is in full swing at the moment, and for Tudor it seems to have been quite a success. Their booth has been busier than ever with fans, collectors, journalists and VIPs taking in their newest novelties. These are the newest pieces from Tudor.
Black Bay 58
The Black Bay 58 comes with a brand-new burgundy-coloured dial and bezel for 2025 and it’s a really fetching combination for this model. Burgundy originated on the reference 79190 from the 1990s but was never made into a production model until now. With a 39mm stainless steel case water resistant to 200m, either of the two watches will be a great daily driver. They all feature the in-house calibre METAS chronometer MT5400-U, which is self-winding and has a 65-hour power reserve. The watch comes on either a three or five-link bracelet with a black rubber strap included with both. The price is $4,500 for the three-link bracelet and $4,600 for the five-link bracelet.
Black Bay 68
If you liked the classic styling of the Black Bay 58 but didn’t like burgundy and wanted a larger watch (hard to believe, I know), then the Black Bay 68 could well be for you. With a 43mm stainless steel case the Black Bay 68 is a bit more noticeable on the wrist but is very wearable. The silver dial is great, but my choice would be the “TUDOR blue” model; it was hard to put down! With 200m of water resistance and the METAS chronometer-certified in-house calibre MT5601-U (featuring a 70-hour power reserve) inside, this could well be the core piece of your collection. Only the three-link bracelet is available on this model and the price is $4,700.
Black Bay Pro
For 2025, Tudor updated the Black Bay Pro model with a white opaline dial to go with the black dial version they already had. Looking at it, I imagine that Rolex’s Explorer II isn’t long for this world as the 39mm Black Bay Pro looks a lot like it, possibly too much in my view. Nevertheless, it’s solid and comfortable on the wrist, and it has the in-house MT5652 “flyer GMT” movement in it, which has a 70-hour power reserve. This watch can be had with either a fabric/rubber hybrid strap which will cost $4,050, a black and yellow fabric strap which will cost you the same amount or a three-link stainless steel bracelet which will cost $4,375.
Black Bay Chrono
The Black Bay Chrono is a solid watch which has garnered lots of attention in the past few years for the bold colours Tudor has used on its dial. They’ve played it safe this year, though, as these models only receive the “T-Fit” clasp, which allows for micro-adjustment of either of the three or five-link bracelets available on these models (previously, these dials only had the three-link bracelet available).
The 41mm stainless steel case remains unchanged. If you like the three-link bracelet the price is $5,775, but if you think the five-link is better like I do then one of those will set you back $5,875.
Pelagos Ultra
The final model for Tudor this year is the Pelagos Ultra which is all-new and sits at the top of the Pelagos collection. This titanium (grade 2 and grade 5) beast can dive down to 1000m and has the helium escape valve to prove it; plus, it has a super-legible matte black dial with Tudor’s iconic “snowflake” hour hand. The titanium case and bracelet mean this 43mm watch is wearable despite its larger size.
Inside it is the METAS-certified chronometer and in-house-made calibre MT5612-U, which offers a 65-hour power reserve. All watches come on a three-link bracelet in titanium, and there’s a complimentary black rubber strap, too. The price of one of these is $5,950.
Tudor’s new collection for Watches & Wonders Geneva brings some tremendous new watches to choose from. I was particularly impressed by the clasps of the watches, which had a fantastically smooth feeling to them; they looked and felt like they belonged on more expensive watches, which is often the angle Tudor plays. Let us know what you think in the comments, and don’t forget to visit our Instagram page, where we’re sharing lots of great content live from Watches & Wonders Geneva.
