BY HARLAN CHAPMAN-GREEN
In the world of haute horology, few names resonate as profoundly as Breguet. Renowned for its rich heritage and pioneering innovations, Breguet has captivated watch enthusiasts for centuries. Among its current offerings, the Classique collection stands out due to its elegance and sophistication, marrying exquisite craftsmanship with timeless design. Whether you’re a seasoned collector or a newcomer to the world of luxury timepieces, these watches exemplify the perfect fusion of modern style and tradition, and Breguet’s just released two new ones.
The Classique collection is Breguet’s range of dress watches and should be considered on the same level as Patek Philippe’s Calatrava and Vacheron Constantin’s Patrimony watches among others. Less is more in the world of prestigious dress watches, but the new 5177 and 7787 references bring plenty to the table.
The 5177PT/2N/9V601 is the ideal of a modern classical dress watch. Its solid platinum (a first for this model, I believe) case measures 38mm x 8.8mm and is water resistant to 30m. In keeping with the Classique look, the bezel on the watch is super-thin allowing the glossy black grand feu enamel dial to be as large as possible. The usual; idiosyncracies we expect from Breguet’s watches, such as a hand-engraved guilloché dial, are not present here and yet the resemblance is undeniable. Indeed, Breguet has been making the Classique with enamel dials for some time, although this is one of the first times I can recall them doing a black dial.
We still get some unique touches, though, such as the Arabic numerals whose shape is quite literally called ‘Breguet numerals’. The hands are also known as ‘Breguet hands’ as they were the design of company founder and namesake, Abraham-Louis Breguet, but they are also sometimes known as ‘pomme hands’. The hands are long and very thin which again is a call back to the past.
Around the back is the self-winding calibre 777 Q, which has been in these watches forever, I believe. It’s still a technically capable movement with a 4Hz beat rate, 55-hour power reserve and silicone escapement components for magnetic resistance. The 18k gold winding rotor has been rhodium-plated, as is typical for Swiss movements, and has been given a unique ‘starry mosaic’ guilloché finish. The price of one of these watches is CHF36,800.
The other offering, the Classique 7787PT/2N/9VU, is quite similar. This one’s slightly more complex than the 5177, but the asymmetrical dial has been laid out based on designs from Breguet himself but updated for 2024. As well as the three hands and the date of the 5177, we’re also treated to an offset power reserve indicator featuring a super-thin hand and a realistic moonphase display. Also, like the 5177, the watch has a platinum case featuring thin welded lugs and coin-edging, a Breguet hallmark. The case measures 39mm x 10.3mm, is also 30m water resistant, and comes on a black leather strap like the 5177 although this one has a platinum folding clasp whereas the 5177 has a platinum pin buckle.
Inside this watch and also on display through the caseback is the self-winding calibre 591 DRL, which comes with a 4Hz beat rate, 38-hour power reserve and silicone components in the escapement assembly. The rotor of this model features a more traditional ‘barleycorn’ style guilloché, which is a treat for the eyes. The price of one of these watches is CHF43,800.
Both the 5177 and 7787 showcase elegant design and exceptional craftsmanship. The black dials are classy and are matched by the platinum cases. If I had to choose, I’d go with the 5177, as different versions of that reference have been on my grail watch list for years, but I certainly wouldn’t reject a 7787! Which is your favourite?
