BY HARLAN CHAPMAN-GREEN
In December last year, Doxa unveiled the Sub 200 range of diving watches. These pieces are mid-sized (for the sports watch market) pieces with vintage inspiration written all over them, a myriad of colours to choose from and vintage-y bracelets. For 2020, Doxa is now presenting another variant of the Sub 200 watches called the Sub 200 C-Graph.
Much like the original Sub 200, these pieces feature a lot of vintage inspiration. Perhaps the most noticeable of this is the case shape which slowly tapers from the centre of the case to the lugs. Much like the Sub 200 collection from last year, the Sub 200 C-Graph watches can be had either on steel bracelets or rubber straps with the bracelet style embossed on them. These straps are also matched to the colour of the dial chosen. Doxa has been known for decades as a pioneer in the use of colourful dials on dive watches.
As with the Sub 200, the Sub 200 C-Graph watches come in six colours. There’s the classic Doxa orange which is called Orange Professional, there’s also Yellow Divingstar, Silver Searambler, Turquoise Aquamarine, Navy Caribbean and Black Sharkhunter. The names are probably a little gimmicky, but Doxa as a brand doesn’t take itself tremendously seriously, so it works for them.
Now, the Sub 200 watches has a diameter of 42mm and a thickness of 14mm, which is relatively normal for this segment. The Sub 200 C-Graphs measure in larger at 45mm x 17.4mm which is most likely to account for the chronograph movement that they’ve used, at least in terms of thickness.
Inside these watches sits a Sellita calibre called the SW510 b, which is a robust cam-operated chronograph movement featuring a 48-hour power reserve and a beat rate of 4Hz. It’ll also be relatively easy to service as these movements don’t tend to be particularly intricate, meaning that you should have a reliable watch for decades to come.
The large case diameter may also have something to do with legibility. To keep this clean yet readable, Doxa employs shaped and lumed hands to help them out. The running seconds for the movement at 9 O’clock have a square tip, while the others are triangular. There’s plenty of SuperLumiNova to make these watches easy to read no matter which colour you go for.
All models are water-resistant to 200m and will cost CHF 2650 on a rubber strap or CHF 2690 for the bracelet option.
Visit Doxa here.
Technical details
Model: SUB 200 C-GRAPH
References
798.10.351.10 (orange dial, stainless steel bracelet)
798.10.351.21 (orange dial, orange rubber strap)
798.10.021.10 (silver dial, stainless steel bracelet)
798.10.021.20 (silver dial, black rubber strap)
798.10.101.10 (black dial, stainless steel bracelet)
798.10.101.20 (black dial, black rubber strap)
798.10.201.10 (navy dial, stainless steel bracelet)
798.10.201.32 (navy dial, navy rubber strap)
798.10.361.10 (yellow dial, stainless steel bracelet)
798.10.361.31 (yellow dial, yellow rubber strap)
798.10.241.10 (turquoise dial, stainless steel bracelet)
798.10.241.25 (turquoise dial, turquoise rubber strap)
Case
Stainless steel
Diameter: 45. 00 mm
Thickness: 17.40 mm
Lug width: 20 mm
Crystal: Glass box sapphire
Stainless steel screw-in case back
Screw-down crown
Bezel: Stainless steel with a sapphire insert – unidirectional rotation
Water resistance: 200 meters, 20 Bar, equivalent to about 650 feet
Dial
Painted indices treated with a Super-LumiNova® luminescent coating
Hands treated with a Super-LumiNova® luminescent coating
Painted outer minute track
Movement
Swiss-made, chronograph, mechanical self-winding
Power reserve: about 48 hours
Functions
Chronograph, three counters
Hours, minutes and seconds
Bracelet/strap
Stainless steel ‘rice bead’ bracelet with a deployant clasp featuring a diver’s extension and the ‘DOXA fish’ symbol
Rubber strap in the dial color, Tang buckle featuring the ‘DOXA fish’ symbol.
Suggested retail price
CHF 2’690.00 for the version with the stainless steel ‘rice bead’ bracelet
CHF 2’650.00 for the version with the rubber strap