BY HARLAN CHAPMAN-GREEN
Ulysse Nardin is an independent watchmaker these days, that means they’re completely self-sufficient financially and utterly unbound horologically. With that said, they’ve always been aware of their ties to the waters of our planet; with an anchor in their logo, it’s hard to imagine how they’d forget that. This means they’re more likely than not to bring out some wild diving watches, and for 2025’s Watches & Wonders Geneva they’ve done just that.
The newest addition to the collection is the Diver [AIR], so named because it’s the lightest mechanical diving watch ever made. It weighs just 52 grams including the fabric Velcro strap or just 46 grams without it, yet it measures 44.00mm x 14.76mm. The case is made of a mixture of titanium, silicone and some other elements, which give it a unique look and feel; it’s also able to withstand impacts of 5000G and is water resistant to 200m. In the hand and on the wrist the angular case has a pleasing tactile feeling, and its diameter and thickness mean you don’t forget it’s there even if the lightness makes it seem like you might forget it.
The lightness doesn’t just extend to the case made of futuristic materials or the strap. Even the movement has been engineered to be a featherweight. Its low mass of 10 grams is achieved by using titanium for its components, it’ extremely strong and durable but notoriously difficult to machine. Despite this, Ulysse Nardin has skeletonised as much of the calibre UN-374 as possible while still providing a 90-hour power reserve with automatic winding.
It seems daft of me to write that this watch, costing $38,000, is a steal in the world of wristwatches, but when you consider that if Richard Mille or the like had done this, it would probably be ten times that price then Ulysse Nardin’s Diver [AIR] is a steal. It’s still an expensive watch, but it’s limited only by how quickly Ulysse Nardin can make it rather than by an actual cap. That shows they’re fully confident in their newest watch, and they have every right to be.
Don’t forget to check out our Instagram page where we’re showing videos of the novelties from Watches & Wonders Geneva.
